Falling behind the packs of tourists on tight itineraries, Fatemah Farag re-discovers Luxor Luxor may be home to some of the world's most amazing archaeological sites, and yet it is an undervalued city. Hordes of tourists are run in and out of Luxor International Airport, their itineraries barely giving them enough time to visit the most important tombs and temples, let alone the nooks and crannies of the archaeological treasure trove that was ancient Thebes, and the many people that also make this city worth visiting. "One day on the East Bank and one day on the West Bank, a traditional Egyptian food buffet at their five-star hotel and perhaps a galabiya party or a belly-dancer and their off," explains a tour operator early in the morning, as he pulls his party together and I wait for our luggage. Other than the Japanese, it seems that most visitors prefer to spend more time enjoying the Red Sea beaches and considering perceived security concerns, the arrangement seems to suit all involved. This would be fine if it did not so horribly misrepresent the city. Our taxi ferries take us down the road towards our hotel: lush green palms stand out against the clear blue sky, men in white galabiyas perched on donkeys slow down our progress and we take in the façade of newly painted traditional mud homes -- a recent, much-debated decision of the head of the Luxor City Council towards revamping the city. Soon, we arrive at the long, one-car bridge that will take us onto Crocodile Island and the Mövenpick Resort. Now, I would also be dissatisfied to reduce Luxor to any of the many five-star hotels that string its East Bank, but I will have to start here. My parents brought me almost every year for as long as I can -- or would like -- to remember. And today, every year I pack up my girls and bring them here too. Even if nostalgia does not figure into your vacation plans, this is probably one of the best hotels to come to if you have children. It is comprised of one-storey clusters of rooms spread out across the island, each with a small terrace leading out into the garden. No stairs, elevators and other such devices that can be nightmarish if you have small children in tow. Further, you are literally in the middle of a garden whichever way you move, and young ones can have free reign to run about and take in the fresh air. A recent renovation a few years ago left the rooms intact (phew!), but re-designed the lobby in a way which succeeded in completely disarming the area of all of its previous charm. And while new-comers will find the space pleasant enough, old-timers I have spoken too are devastated. The renovations did, however, install a new infinity pool overlooking the Nile which is fabulous and includes a separate kiddy pool replete with climbers, slides and a swing. Situated behind the kiddy pool is an enclosed playground and we are promised a kids club in the near future. The miniature zoo is home to a crocodile, an assortment of rabbits, guinea pigs, goats, sheep, donkeys, monkeys, a camel, a pelican and another pelican -- who apparently had half of his beak bitten off by the crocodile and never left. The zoo remains a personal favourite even today, and was also relocated and expanded within the renovation scheme. The attendants are always keen on letting children feed the goats or take an impromptu camel ride. But the Mövenpick is also hospitable to its adult customers as well. The old pool (which is heated) is now a child-free area, while a spa offers a variety of massage, masque and wrap treats. The vistas of the Nile from pretty much everywhere in the hotel are breathtaking. Every room has its own outdoor chaise-lounge which you can roll over and situate underneath your favourite tree for hours of relaxing quiet time. Or put on your running shoes and head out onto the Parcour -- follow small signs around the 2km jogging track that encircles the island where at regular intervals there are exercise stops -- all designed to match their natural surroundings and complete with instructions on how to use them. A sunset concert takes place everyday and recordings of classical music complement dark orange, bright pink and luscious yellow skies reflected in the mirror-like water surface of the Nile. There is also a daily itinerary -- donkey rides to Al-Moharab Monastery, bird watching safaris on the island and water aerobics in the pool. For those of us who prefer not to plan a holiday hour-by-hour, the Mövenpick offers interesting off-beat activities that cater to a variety of interests. The bonus is that if you go often enough and at the same time of year, you are bound to be remembered by the staff who will put small vases of flowers on your terrace table and point out new plants and indulgently smile as your little ones smudge mud on the recently swept walkways. And then there is the food. I mean who can argue with a breakfast buffet which features buttery Um Ali (Egyptian bread pudding) or dinner menus that end in scrumptious chocolate mouse. If one has to quibble with the Mövenpick, then all I could say -- in addition to the fact that they no longer turn down beds in the evening and leave little cookies on your pillow -- is that they are removed from town. Nonetheless, they have a regular shuttle service and a shuttle boat three times a day to make up for the distance. If you are keen on staying close to town, it would be difficult to outdo the Winter Palace Hotel. The old building built in 1887 is as grand as grand can be, and was once the winter hot spot frequented by Egypt's royal family. It remains the hotel of choice for local and international dignitaries. As you sit out on the terrace overlooking the Corniche, you can revel in the knowledge that here sat King Farouk, Agatha Cristie and Jimmy Carter before you. And yet it is a homey place -- my girls have spent more than one hot afternoon crawling up and down the wide, high ceiling hallways, coolly eyeing antique lamps and vases and we were never once made to feel uncomfortable. The dining rooms are spacious and impeccably furnished, and the food while pricey and sometimes unremarkable, is always of a standard. Ask for a room with a terrace -- the rooms are spacious and the balconies small -- but just imagine yourself ordering tea or a gin-tonic at sunset, enjoying the view of the Nile and West Bank from the privacy of your own room. The gardens and pool in the back are magnificent with grand old trees removing you from the city and the main street in the front. A few years ago, a row of spacious rooms were built with lovely terraces overlooking the garden area. The only part of the Winter Palace which I can't be enthusiastic about is the new hotel -- an ugly imposing structure on the main street adjacent to the original hotel. While the service there has always been very friendly, the building is unremarkable and pales in comparison with its palatial predecessor. There is no shortage of hotels on the East Bank, and if five- star options -- which also include a Hilton and Sheraton -- are out of your range, consider one of many economic options such as the highly recommended Nefertiti, Happy Home or Grand. All are centrally located in town. Or head to the West Bank by either the ferry for 50PT or power boat for LE5 for crossing in style. Upon arriving and towards the left is Amoun, a basic hotel and a favourite with some archaeologists. Or take a taxi or microbus and head down the road towards the hills of Gurna and through the sugarcane fields, past the Collosi of Memnon, and turn right to the Marsam Hotel, also known locally as the house of the late Haj Ali Abdel-Rasoul where rooms are clean and the food is basic, fresh and very good. But enough of accommodation -- it's time to leave your rooms and hit the town. According to Kent Weeks, renowned Egyptologist and author of The illustrated guide to Luxor: Tombs, Temples and museums (a comprehensive, full-colour, easy to carry resource), you should make time to visit one tomb of each of the noble tombs representing the five chronological divisions. "[Any] visit should include Ramose, Rekhmire, Roy, Sennedjem and Sennefer. Of the royal tombs, Thutmes III, Thutmes IV, or Amenhetep II should be on the list, as should Horemheb, Ramses III, and Ramses IV. In addition to Luxor Temple and the Karnak complex, one should see the temples of Madinet Habu, Merenptah and Deir Al-Bahari. Deir Al-Madina and a hike over the hills are also to be recommended. The Luxor Museum of Ancient Art and the Karnak Open-Air Museum both deserve visits," highlights Weeks -- and this is an itinerary for those who do not have adequate time. There is so much to see, it is almost daunting. This is compounded by the fact that many of these sites require good stamina: long walks up and down temple grounds, straining your neck to see the colour that still remains at the top of a column, hobbling bent over down stairs to see a tomb in which the air is often stifling -- not to mention the heat if you happen to visit during a hot month. But not to worry. Arm yourself with a good guidebook and when you reach the various sites, there is no shortage of local guides who are more than happy to tell you what they know about the sites where they have spent no less than their entire lives. Of course, Luxor Temple and Karnak on the East Bank are a must, although taxi drivers, tourist buses and calech drivers can be somewhat harrowing. The West Bank is more relaxed and it is possible to escape the elements and etch out your own way. My husband's favourite mode of West Bank exploration is the bicycle, and we are all converts to his method. You need to be in shape though, as distances as you head out to the Valley of Kings and Queens are long. You might want to keep the bike part of your tour to the Temples of Habu, the Ramaseum and closer sites, especially that the sun can be harsh even in winter. Try to schedule your time outdoors in the early morning or late afternoon -- which is when the tombs are said to have the fewest visitors. In the summer, stick to the early mornings and make sure to keep yourself hydrated. You can rent a bike on the East Bank and take it over on the ferry or boat. The advantage is that you get to come up to the Colossi of Memnon, an unforgettable site as they rear up 18 metres above the fields that surround them. Unfortunately, the sight is slightly dampened as the view is now obstructed from the road by the awning covering a police truck, where inevitably some officers will be lounging. You can also stop by the village of New Gurna, built by the legendary architect Hassan Fathi, in the early 1960s. While many inhabitants have pulled down several old thick-walled adobe adorning houses in favour of more "practical" cement structures, some of the old buildings still stand, as does the mosque, the roman theatre and the khan which has been allowed to fall into disrepair. People are very friendly and someone is sure to offer to take you around, and if you are lucky it might be someone's baking day and you will be allowed to watch the women make perfectly round loaves before putting them out to make eish shamsy -- literally "sun bread". Or go to the West Bank without a bike and head to the Marsam, where "Bike Fex" will be happy to look for something your size. Rent for a day or a week -- the rate will probably be around LE10 a day -- and be sure to try out your bike before taking it since they often suffer problems with brakes. You can also opt for a donkey ride -- you need to find an animal that knows the trails and beware of someone trying to rent you a farm donkey. Your best bet is to have your hotel arrange this for you, and while it is claimed to be a great experience, friends who chose this mode of transportation came home with aching backsides. Start out early -- the ticket booth to the left of the Marsam opens at 6:30am, and some tombs are only open in the very early morning. Start with the tombs while you are still fresh, and wind down with the temples which are easier on the muscles. Take time to sit under the columns in the Temple of Habu -- a structure second only to Karnak in size and better preserved in its entirety -- and watch the pigeons flying within the temple walls. And when you go to the Rammasseum, take a copy of Shelley's sonnet Ozymandias and read it as you look upon the toppled colossi of Ramses II. Then head out to Deir Al-Madina, the workers' village, where the masons, painters and sculptors were housed and read about ancient strikes and work conditions. Or just mark time to walk through the fields and villages of the West Bank, where people will be sure to stop you for conversation and offer tea. Otherwise, opt for a hike across the Theban Hills and enjoy spectacular views. If you are not afraid of heights, another way to capture the sites is to take a hot air balloon at sunrise across the West Bank. Many of these tours offer a champagne breakfast when you land, and a friend swears that since the navigators are not always sure where they will land, a microbus laden with breakfast shadows the balloon across the fields until it lands. He claims that the sight of the buses zigzagging across the roads trying to keep up with the balloons is commonplace for the villagers, whose children join the race in an attempt to meet up with the tourists who will eventually land from the sky. (see box) Luxor is a quiet town in the evening. A stroll around town is lovely and the newly renovated bazaar area is full of merchandise ranging from Sudanese hot pepper, hibiscus from Aswan and T-shirts from Cairo. If you are not interested in the narrow streets of the bazaar, head out to the Corniche which is beautifully kept and walk towards Gaddis Bookshop located at the Old Winter Palace Hotel. There you will find a comprehensive stock of souvenirs, but what you must look at are the posters of photos taken by Gaddis himself of Luxor and Aswan at the turn of the century -- including the Collosi of Memnon before the road was built and the temples of Abu Simbel before they were dug out of the sand -- which I consider must-haves. Alternately, make your way to Marhaba on the Corniche and across from the Luxor Temple, and enjoy a cold beer overlooking the waterfront. By now you must be hungry and the local spot of choice is Abu Hajar on Adasi Street, which serves kebab and kofta. Equally famous for kebab near the train station is Um Hashim; or go to Sufra, a restaurant that opened one year ago in a renovated typical old Luxorian house. The place must be seen: the renovations are beautiful, the furniture singular, the lighting exquisite. The restaurant is made up of rooms, some of which serve as private dining rooms, and the top floor is a charming terrace. They serve a variety of fresh fruit juices, and start out the meal with doqqa (a traditional mix of salt and spices) and sun bread. The menu looks delicious, but that's as far as it goes; the food was miserable. My fatta was tasteless and did not even include the very basic ingredient of garlic, while my husband's pigeon was dry and tasteless. Back on the street, the warm breeze and quiet hum of the city takes over once again; a slow, soft lilt characteristic of our South and unparalleled anywhere. Whether it be archaeological sites, walks on the Corniche, felluca rides at sunset, or conversations with store-owners and drivers, it all takes time to savour. If you rush the experience, you lose most of the detail that gives it meaning. To give yourself time is to understand that Luxor is not a grouping of old stone, but a breathing, vibrant town. BOX: THE NAME Luxor derives from the Arabic Al-Uqsur -- meaning "the palaces" or "the castles" -- a name which may have referred to a Roman castrum of the town's appearance in mediaeval times, when it squatted amidst the ruins of Thebes. This, in turn, was the Greek name for the city known to the ancient Egyptians as Weset, originally an obscure provincial town during the Old Kingdom, when Egypt was ruled from Memphis. After power ebbed to regional overlords in the First Intermediate Period, Weset/Thebes gained ascendancy in Upper Egypt under Mentuhotpe II (c.2100 BC), who reunited Egypt under the Middle Kingdom. Though this dissolved into anarchy, the town survived as a power base for local princes who eventually liberated Egypt from the Hyksos invaders, reunited the Two Lands and founded the XVIII dynasty (c.1567 BC). As the capital of the New Kingdom, whose empire stretched from Nubia to Palestine, Thebe's ascendancy was paralleled by that of Amun, whose cult temple at Karnak became the greatest in Egypt. At its zenith under the XVIII and XIX dynasties, Thebes may have had a population of around one million; Homer's Illyad describes it as a "city with a hundred gates". Source: The Rough Guide to Egypt, Updated Fourth Edition. HOT air ballooning in Luxor produces a genuine high, writes Mohamed El-Hebeishy. Man wanted to fly; man put a man in a box and sent it to the sky! But long before that, in 875 AD, a Berber humanitarian, technologist, and chemist by the name of Abbas Qasim Ibn Firnas built himself a glider and jumped off a mountain. The stunned citizens of the Omayyad Caliphate of Córdoba in Andalusia were witnessing man's very first attempt to fly. Aged 65 at the time, Ibn Firnas's attempt was actually successful though his landing was not. Left with a back injury, the Arab pioneer died 12 years later. Just a little over 900 years later came the first successful attempt to power flight. It was on 21 November 1783 when Pilâtre de Rozier and the Marquis d'Arlandes flew the first hot air balloon in Paris. It was an original invention of the Montgolfier Brothers. The theory behind hot air ballooning is straightforward: heat the air inside the craft using a propane burner and voilà, you are ascending. Reverse the equation and you're descending. Of course the real thing is much more complex with certified and experienced pilots commanding hot air balloons. Hot air ballooning is mainly for recreational purposes with Luxor being the only place in all of Egypt to offer such a delight. Ballooning on its own is an exquisite experience. The state of being aloft, suspended in the middle of the sky with no humming engine next to you, the smooth gliding through the horizon while feeling the cold morning breeze gently touching your face. But above all, it is the bird-like view that really gets me; seeing the world from a different perspective. Going for this adventure in Luxor is a double treat; you are not only ballooning, you are actually flying on a fabulous formation of colours -- the blue from the Nile, the green from the lush fields of Luxor's west bank and the yellow from the nearby desert. Temple of Hatshepsut, the Ramseum, and the Valley of the Kings are all a pleasure to visit and explore, but from up there, the sight of them becomes enormously captivating as they glitter in the morning sun like a twinkling tear on the cheek of time. For hot air ballooning in Luxor contact: Magic Horizon Balloons, Ahmed Mohamed 010 568 8439, 012 226 1697, www.magic-horizon.com, e-mail: [email protected].
