The first rays of sunlight swiftly make their way across seas of gray clouds as I climb up the seemingly endless stairs to the church. From its imposing stone walls emerge life-like bronze statues of Joan of Arc and King Saint Louis IX, their swords gloriously raised toward the heavens. The late 19th century basilica is among the youngest in the city, but what it lacks in age and history, the architectural masterpiece makes up for in grandiosity. The Basilica Sacré-Cœur crowns one of the most popular tourist destinations in Paris: Montmartre, a large hill located in the capital's 18th arrondissement, rising 130 metres above its surroundings. Paris is divided into 20 districts known as "arrondissements"; the lower the number, the more central the district. Thus, Montmartre is on the northern periphery of the city, and among its less affluent areas. Emblem of the French Bohemian era, the hilltop village is only a short walk from the infamous Pigalle neighborhood, home to the Moulin Rouge cabaret, a potentially interesting stop along the way. The neighborhood offers a wide range of activities especially suited to low-budget travelers, with much to be done for free. Firstly, unless you choose to take a full tour of the steeple and other restricted areas, entrance into the cathedral is free of charge, and generally queue-free as well. Entrance is definitely recommended, as the stained glass and ornaments are absolutely breathtaking. The hilltop village has been home to several renowned artists, among them Vincent Van Gogh, Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali, whose museum is among the main tourist attractions in the vicinity. Worry not, however, if you cringe at the price of the ticket. The artistic hub still has plenty in store. In the Roaring Twenties, Montmartre was known as the mecca of modern art. The neighborhood still harbors numerous undiscovered talents, many of whom can be seen at work at the central square, Place du Tertre, which qualifies as no less than an open-air museum. Artists from all around the world used to set up their easels on that square, of which they were the sole occupants. With no paperwork or formalities required, newcomers were welcome, as working space was abundant. Over the years, however, the increasing number of shops, restaurants and cafes meant limited space for painters and sketch artists. They now have to take part in government-organized competitions, with a select number of winners earning a small spot to work and display their creations. I learn this from speaking with Kurdish portrait artist Karim. As is the case for many of his fellow portraitists, the art he showcases is very different from that which he creates for his personal pleasure. The middle-aged man soon reveals that what sells is seldom the same as what stems from true passion. This sad reality leads some artists to question the authenticity of the cultural scene, which many believe to be taking an overly commercial turn. At the turn of the century, the old neighborhood was plagued by a virulent vermine, a cold-blooded reptile with an unquenchable thirst for profit: a modern evil known as Cultural Imperialism. The creature sunk its teeth into the facades of art galleries, changing the entrance signs from “Galerie d'Art” to “Gift and Souvenir Shop!” The venom soon spread to the multiple crêperies, piano bars and old cafés, which slowly morphed into McDonald's and Starbucks. This is how an Italian portrait artist, now well into his seventies, tells the story of the city's march toward self-destruction. In his 50 years painting here in the square, the painter, poet and philosopher claims to have witnessed the decadence of French culture. The “Snake”, he tells me, will soon do away with what little is left of the local art scene. Although this vision is shared by many, others — such as young Jerome — oppose this doomsday scenario, and rather think of the wave of “Americanization” as an innevitable consequence of the flood of American tourists visiting every year. The painter sports a pair of Ray Ban sunglasses and Levi jeans. His display consists mainly of monochromatic representations of the Eiffel Tower and he mostly caters to American tourists. Jerome hardly ever displays his works in French galleries, believing that French people are “uncultured, unappreciative of the local art scene, uninterested in reading and visiting museums.” His works have been exhibited in galleries all across the United States: in New York, San Francisco, Washington and Miami. The August sun shone at its brightest, drowning the old town in midday heat, and I browsed the area for a place to eat. The mouth-watering scent of home-made chocolate led me into the narrow streets, and to a storefront that reading “Le Tire-Bouchon, crêperie”. One simply does not visit Montmartre without stopping for a treat at one of the myriad little crêperies. No matter the weather, a crêpe chocolat maison is always a good idea. Avoid the tourist-traps, and you should be able to find a meal-sized crêpe, any flavor, from plain sugar to beef-and-melted-cheese, for 4 or 5 euros tops. Travellers might also like to pass by the “Deux Moulins” café. Yes, the one in Jean-Pierre Jeunet's iconic film, Amélie. Much older, however, than the French production, the place dates back to the early 20th century. A great picture spot, it is located at the junction of Rue Lepic and Rue Cauchis and owes its name to the two nearby historical windmills, Moulin Rouge and Moulin de La Galette. As I made my way down the never-ending stairs, the evening sky tinted with shades of red, a low, husky voice caught me off guard. “Where are you from? Can I write you a song?”, he asked, as I came to a halt. The voice was that of old French-Congolese singer named Rod Niangandoumou. A one-hit-wonder in the eighties, he rose to short-lived fame with the disco tune Shake It Up: Do the Boogaloo. Along with many other performers, the artist can be found on some evenings offering the public a free, open-air concert. From the area surrounding of the church at the top of the hill, to the entrance of the Abbesses metro station at the bottom, the road is paved with numerous singers, dancers, musicians and more. Thus Montmartre offers free entrance into a historical site and a vast, open-air museum; as well as a low-cost taste of fine French cuisine, and an open invitation to late-night entertainment, all rendered much more pleasant by the astonishing beauty of the neighborhood. If you ever get a chance to visit Paris, make sure to take a walk around Montmartre. You most certainly will not regret it.
