It's half an hour before iftar (the fast-breaking meal). The Muslim holy month of Ramadan traditionally changes the lifestyle of almost everyone in Egypt and affects almost every nook and cranny of the country. And the Greater Cairo Underground is no exception. In the minutes prior to iftar, when everyone is eager to get home for the sunset meal with the family, the carriages on the Tube trains are full of a motley crew of commuters with varying agenda. Holding copies of the Holy Qur'an, many passengers patiently recite chapters and verses, paying no attention to the noise caused by the movement of the train or the racket caused by their fellow passengers. Those who don't have a copy of Islam's Holy Book find solace in their cellphones. They are content with listening either to Qur'anic recitation on the FM frequency or to programmed-in tunes. "Please turn down the volume. I can't concentrate on reading the Qur'an," a man with a beard tells a young man whose mobile phone is blaring out a love song. "This is not the right place to read the Qur'an. You can wait until you get home to recite it as you wish," retorts the twentysomething chap. His remark, however, draws angry looks from other reciters of the Holy Book. "You ought to be ashamed of yourself. We're in Ramadan, the month of the Qur'an," chips in another man. As tempers fray, a third passenger in his seventies, declares: "I swear by God Almighty that this is a sign that Doomsday is nigh. The young people of today are so rude and disrespectful. They don't know how to behave themselves, even in Ramadan." As the din escalates and the embattled young guy, apparently reaching the conclusion that he is losing the battle, wisely takes the easy option of getting off at the next stop. "What are you having for iftar?" a female voice comes from the end of the carriage. "Stewed meat, stuffed cabbage and meatballs? Great, but how can you afford all that for your iftar table?" asks the veiled woman on her mobile phone, as passengers around exchange looks of disapproval and also curiosity. "In our district, the price of meat has soared to LE54 per kilo. It's haram [something disapproved by God]. I'm on my way home. My clever daughters have fixed the iftar meal, but it cannot vie with yours!" she chuckles audibly as the bearded man grumbles, saying: "May God forgive us. This is ridiculous. Besides, a woman's voice is awra [sinful] in public places." "Bon appetit, auntie," a gang of cheeky yobs declare in a melodious chorus before jumping off the train.
