The following depiction is not for the faint of heart or the inexperienced traveler. But if you land Kabul airport and wonder what you re doing there just follow these steps. First find a taxi into town, as the airport is 10 kilometers away. The taxi can be easily found and you should negotiate the price before leaving. Ideally you would have someone waiting for you. Next you'll need to set up your base of operations. There are several hotels in Mazar but one of the best is the Ariana, located on the airport road. After getting settled, it s time to set out. Travel to the Blue Mosque area in the center of the city. It is home to one of the disputed resting places of Ali, Prophet Mohamed's cousin and son-in-law. But make your visit to the shrine another time, for now it is to help you set your bearings. First thing you need to do is get out of your western clothes and blend in. Adjacent to the northwest corner of the mosque is a market for just that. The three things you should get are the baggy pants, knee length shirt, and vest. To go for a more local look you can accessorize with a checkered scarf (keffiyeh), round wool hat called a pakol, or traditional black and red mazari fez. You may feel awkward for wearing local clothes, and undoubtedly you've made fun of people who've done it before, but it's for your protection. Now with your new threads it is time to get blinged out. On the southwest corner of the mosque, take the road going west to the next intersection and ask for the gold market. You really don't want to buy any gold but rather lapis lazuli; Afghanistan is the major producer of the deep blue semiprecious stone. But be careful, they'll tell you it's set in silver but most likely it is not. With the proper look you'll probably be a little hungry. Go back to the Blue Mosque area and get some street food. Enter in one of the local kebab shops. You might be confused when you walk in and there aren't any chairs but a raised platform. Remember "when in Rome and climb up on the platform with the other patrons and wait for the freshly cooked lamb. After eating your fill, try the fresh juice or even better "cold milk for dessert. It is Afghanistan's delicious version of ice cream handmade in metal buckets. Next make your way to the local billiard hall. This is a great place to meet new people. There aren't many hangouts outside of the home but many young Afghani men hang out there. If you re lucky enough to make some friends, and it should be easy, they will certainly invite you to their home, as Afghan hospitality is second to none. If this is the case and you feel secure, forget the rest of my article because they will show you the other side of Mazar. But if you don't want to risk it or want to stay on your own, the next stop is the county fair. Called Park Tafreha, this fair offers three rides, a swing, a Ferris wheel and a rocking boat. The Ferris wheel will give you a commanding view of the city. It is also great for people-watching. As the night progresses you might want to retire back to the Ariana Hotel because the next day will be packed. After waking up, go down stairs to talk to the people at the front desk to hire a car for the day. Once you've acquired a car, you'll be traveling to Balkh. It is one of the oldest cities in the world and contains some amazing ruins. Only 20 kilometers away, it is worth the trip. The advice bestowed unto me that I will share with you is to not speak English on this trip. This area can have some sympathies towards the Taliban so keep cautious of your surroundings and try to blend in. The first stop is Afghanistan's oldest mosque, called Noh Gonbad. This ninth century ruin is amazing but not as impressive as the old city of Balkh. This square kilometer fortress was larger than Mazar until the people were driven away by disease. Its history is fascinating but a simple article can't serve it justice. While in the fort, visit the alleged tomb of Prophet Mohamed's grandfather. Ironically, next to the tomb, is a hash den where you can smoke for free. This is not recommended. The next stop has to be the tomb of Adam and Eve's first son. The authenticity of this tomb is highly dubious but it is still something to see. If you are hungry along the journey tell the driver and he can get you some roadside grub. After a day of touring make your way back to Mazar. After learning and appreciating the surroundings, it is now time to visit the Blue Mosque. This tiled tomb has intricate designs and is the final site before you jump back on the plane.
