108 minutes in Amman, Jordan

AMMAN, Jordan: Jordan’s capital is as different as they come in the Middle East. White and cream colored buildings shining in the sun are what you might notice first giving Amman a strange almost un-city like aspect with its absence of strikingly tall glass covered buildings (Jordan Gate towers are still being finished). Seat of the Hashemite Monarchy, Amman is perched on several hills but many of its most important attractions are concentrated in a small circuit in the downtown area.
The most common expression you will hear is “Welcome to Jordan”, its cliché, but most Jordanians really do want you to feel nothing more than welcome. In a region where hospitality is second nature, Jordanian’s go out of their way to be friendly. I was lucky enough to live in Amman for three months last winter and while I’ve heard the city being described by backpackers as simply a stop between Petra and Damascus and as being boring, I found the city a great place to live. Bedouin can still be seen herding their goats across roads past white buildings to vacant lots that dot the city. Sunsets on the predominantly white buildings are ethereal and at times otherworldly. In short, for those with a little patience, Amman will gladly offer her secrets. Lets go.
The tour begins in the heart of Downtown a-top Jebel al-Qala, home to the citadel, a Byzantine Basilica and the ruins of the Roman temple of Hercules. From Jebel al-Qala turn your peepers north westerly and gaze upon the 3rd largest free standing flag pole in the world, the flag is so big it needs air holes so the wind can keep it flapping. Then quickly trot down to the Umayyad Palace and its domed hall. Possibly the original inspiration for the al-Aqsa Mosque in al-Kuds (Jerusalem) it is now a hollow shell, but still impressive. Lastly walk through the National Archaeological Museum and take in the wisdom of the Dead Sea Scrolls.
Next, head down to Hashemi Street, run into one of the many souvenir shops and get a Jordanian Royal family fridge magnet. Queen Rania is gorgeous! Then move on to the Roman Theater and make friends with the Palestinian kids that have made it their playground. If you want, take a look at the museum forever frozen in the 1960’s, its really more of a ‘looking at the museum rather than looking at its contents’ kind of thing, but the old photo’s of Amman are great, the area you are now standing in was once a big paddock.
Take yourself down to the second hand cloths market behind King Hussein Mosque. My friend bought a pair of brown and turquoise cowboy boots that she hasn’t taken off yet (that was 8 months ago) and I picked up possibly the coolest hoodie (sweat-shirt?) I have ever owned. It’s also a great chance to talk to some Jordanian’s. Then cross the street and get a juice opposite the Mosque, or alternatively, pick up a Baladna chocolate milk from a nearby shop, considered the finest chocolate milk drink in all of the Middle East.
Now walk down al-Malek Faisal Street to Hamdi’s DVD shop. While I can’t advocate buying pirate DVD’s, they’re 1 dinar and if you buy 10, you’ll get one thrown in for free, and Hamdi has everything from art-house, classic and new releases not to mention every episode of the Sopranos and Lost. But if you’d prefer not to get an arm full of DVD’s, you can always go to the kanafeh shop around the corner and try a Jordanian specialty. Kenafeh’s much cheesier that its Egyptian cousin. Try some; it’s really good when it’s still warm and sticky.
Finally, hike up the hill to Books @ Café off Rainbow Street and order the ginger flavoured coffee. They serve it in a huge mug and give you a free refill. If you’re hungry then try the shepards pie or a vegetarian burger. From the café, you can watch the sun kiss the hills of Amman as it dips below the horizon and the words “Welcome to Jordan” lingering in your mind and take on a new meaning.
BM