ABU SIMBEL, Egypt: The vertical length of Egypt is often expressed as from Alexandria to Aswan. That is inaccurate, as the tiny town of Abu Simbel lies 190 miles (280 km) south of Aswan. Abu Simbel does not feel like anywhere in Egypt. This small Nubian town by Lake Nasser is only 25 miles (40 km) from the Sudanese border. Abu Simbel is world famous for its magnificent temple of the Pharaoh Ramses II, arguably one of the most exciting archaeological sites in Egypt. The beauty of Abu Simbel will amaze even those who know little or nothing about Egyptology. Abu Simbel is never visited on its own, but rather as part of a trip to Luxor and Aswan. Few tourists bother to take the four hour bus ride from Aswan to Abu Simbel, and that is part of its charm. It is nearly void of any touristy bazaars, police escorts and souvenir marketplaces. You are in Nubia, or rather what's remaining of it. The two temples of Abu Simbel are a leisurely 30 minute walk from the bus stop. For half an hour, take a walk along the splendid Lake Nasser. The name ‘lake' gives the impression that it is an enclosed body of water with a visible end. The calm, placid waters of Lake Nasser stretch as far as the eye can see, ending only in Sudan. Looking at it, it appears more like a sea than a lake. The perpetual breeze and tranquil, rippling waters coupled with the almost total silence will make you feel you've entered another world. Once at the temples, start with the larger temple of Ramses II. About an hour is ample time for both. Its entrance with the four colossal statues of the Pharaoh is depicted on the paper one pound note. A fully grown adult will feel tiny alongside them. Apart from the temple itself, the story of its reconstruction is indeed impressing. The site it occupies now is not the original. In the sixties when late President Nasser started the building of the Aswan High Dam, water began to collect in what is now Lake Nasser and drown most of Nubia and its temples. An international effort that cost several years and 40 million dollars saw the two temples cut into 2,000 huge blocks and painstakingly moved and reconstructed in the same precise order in another site 650 feet (210 meters) away from the water and 208 feet (65 meters) higher than the original site, which disappeared under Lake Nasser. Without delving into minute details of Ramses II's temple, one thing worth noting is the innermost hall that houses statues of Ramses II, the sun god Ra-Horakhty, and the gods Amun and Ptah (god of the underworld). The temple and its rooms are aligned in such a way that on the early mornings of October 22 and February 22 every year (Ramses's birthday and coronation day), the first rays of the rising sun penetrate the halls of the temple to illuminate the faces of Ramses II, Ra and Amun, while extraordinarily leaving the god of the underworld in the dark. Before the temples were moved, this phenomenon happened one day earlier. Have a quick look at the much smaller temple of Hathor, dedicated to Ramses's wife Nefertari. What is most interesting about it is that Nefertari's statue is the same size as her husband's, unlike most temples where the wife is depicted as much smaller. Relax on the benches provided and enjoy the breeze. On your way back to the bus station, there is a very small garden by Lake Nasser where you can sit or have a picnic (if you've brought any food with you). Around the town center, Nubian men, women and children go about their daily lives and offer their friendly greetings to foreigners. Women can be seen wearing their traditional garb, which is not even seen in Aswan. The older generation can be heard speaking the Nubian dialect, which they've held on to ever since Nubia drowned decades ago. Despite its size, Abu Simbel is definitely an escape from the boisterous Luxor and Aswan and will appeal to any adventurous soul. BM
