For those predicting the urban renewal of Cairo--the postponement of the city's wild plans for suburbanization and a re-investment in its traditional urban core--Cairo's extraordinary 19th century downtown has always had more potential than results. Those contrarians with an alternative vision of what downtown could look like seem to be surpassed every step by the forces that embrace cheap shoe stores. Ironically, proponents of urban renewal in Cairo these days find much to cheer about in Baron Empain's 20th century suburban experiment, Heliopolis--an area that just decades ago was part of Cairo's suburbs. Within the few blocks that make up Heliopolis's Korba area, something exciting is taking place. Long a commercial hub, Korba is attracting new businesses and investment while maintaining its traditional merchants and charm. The Shorouk bookstore, Costa Coffee and a branch of the TBS bakery now sit comfortably beside traditional jewelers, merchants and offices. In the surrounding tree-lined streets, beautiful residences are being rediscovered and renovated, attracting a mini-boom among residents who, until a few years ago, were abandoning Heliopolis in droves for the surrounding suburbs. All successful urban communities need a gathering place, preferably one serving up decent food. In Korba this role is filled by Le Chantilly. Le Chantilly, part of the group of Swiss restaurants that have been part of the Cairo dining scene for decades, is an old-school favorite. This chain of restaurants, which include Chateau and Chalet in Giza, and Chesa downtown, provide a glimpse into Cairo's dining past, back to a time when things were a bit gentler and a bit more elegant. Le Chantilly may be a touch past its prime; the wall decorations hearken back to the golden days of Nasserism, and the morning I visited the establishment the creaky A/C leaked onto the table next door. But this doesn't prevent the place from being wildly popular. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the place is usually packed. The menu seems to have not changed in decades. Breakfast brings eggs and homemade pastries and there's a range of sandwiches available for a quick snack for lunch. For dinner they roll out all the traditional favorites, including several dishes that justify the restaurant's Swiss identity--among them homemade sausages and fondue. While not reaching soaring heights of culinary splendor, the food is adequate and, on occasion, surprisingly good. The homemade breads and pastries, for example, are delightful. It's tricky to find a quality fondue in Cairo, though Le Chantilly does a respectable job. But the Le Chantilly experience has never been exclusively about the food; it has a delightful ambiance where families and locals love to linger. It's family-friendly, with a dedicated non-smoking section and an outdoor patio area; the service is prompt and diligent. If you're from the area, chances are you'll bump into some of your friends--or at least some of your parents' friends. It's a great place to catch up on neighborhood gossip. All urban revivals begin with an anchor tenant, one whose presence opens people's minds to what could be possible and which paves the way for the next wave of urban revitalizers to come. Korba is currently undergoing a dynamic renewal. If you have any doubts about this, wander the streets during the annual Korba Festival and you'll get the feel. Much of that renewal, I suspect, has been plotted from the storied and elegant tables of Le Chantilly. Details: Le Chantilly, 11 Baghdad St., Heliopolis; Tel: 2290 5213; Open daily from 7am to midnight. Lunch for two: around LE150. Catering available; alcohol served. Take out breads and pastries on-site.
