By Lubna Abdel-Aziz During these summery, sweltering days of mid-July, strains of the Marseillaise ring in our ears, celebrating history's most influential revolution. The French Revolution was instrumental in changing the face of the earth, so was French fashion instrumental in changing the form, style, and taste of its people. The words of Francis Parkman (1823 - 1893) come to mind: "The French Revolution began at the top in the world of fashion, birth, and intellect -- and propagated itself downward" to the people of France. Fashion was already poised to lead, and France possessed all the right ingredients to be instituted as the primary force in world fashion design. Paris was the haven for all artists since the 19th century, encouraging and nurturing their innovative trends. It was also their textile industry, the largest in the world, coupled with their divine cuisine and heavenly beaches, that lured the world's rich and famous to its shores. Taste and style became synonymous with Paris and France. The world of fashion is undivided as to the supremacy of French couture. It may be divided however, when it comes to which is the most influential name in the industry, Chanel or Dior. Last week the illustrious palace of Versailles witnessed one of the most lavish extravaganzas in its history. The opulent pageant may have been reminiscent of days long gone, of the pomp and circumstance of a Sun King, the fanfare and flourish of French nobility. No doubt Marie Antoinette would have approved of the impressive guest list studded with those who 'eat cake'. The occasion was not a coronation or a royal wedding, rather the 60th anniversary birthday bash celebrating the establishment of the House of Dior. Hitting two birds with one stone, designer John Galliano celebrated his 10th year in charge of Dior fashion by presenting his new autumn/winter haute couture show at l'Orengerie in Versailles. The flamboyant British designer pulled out all the stops, persuading some of the world's most beautiful former models, back on the runway. All guests were requested to dress with "extreme elegance" for the occasion, and they all complied. "It's amazing, it's like a dream come true," said the lovely film star Jessica Alba. Paris has been the centre of high fashion since the 16th century influenced by the large fabric industry, and the coquetry of its royalty and nobility, the usual main dictator of fashion. Even "denim" the US most popular wear originated in France, known then as the cloth of "de Nimes." Throughout the 20th century all high fashion originated in Paris. All the world desired part of that 'Parisian chic' Well before WWI, Mademoiselle Chanel ("Coco") opened her first boutique on Rue Cambon in 1910. She became the symbol of high fashion, style and elegance for decades. By WWII it was Christian Dior who emerged as the new temple of elegance and taste, where all fashionistas came to worship. Born in Normandy in 1905, Christian attended l'Ecole des Sciences Politiques from 1920 to 1925. With his father's financial help he opened his first art gallery in 1928, fulfilling his father's wishes never to use the family name. Unable to make an appropriate living selling art, he began to make sketches for Couture Houses. Marcel Boussac, a textile magnate became interested in Dior's new idea that involved using lots of layers of extravagant fabrics. He presented his first collection in 1947, hence the celebration of the great day which immediately made him a legendary figure in the world of fashion. His designs were more voluptuous than the simple strict styles of the war years, influenced by rations on fabric. His "New Look" a phrase coined by Harper's Bazaar's powerful editor in chief Carmel Snow, employed endless yards of luscious fabrics with skirt hems reaching the calves and ankles. The silhouette was ultra feminine and fragile, "I have designed flower women" he explained. It was a composition of rounded shoulders, shapely emphasis of the bust, crunched waist and curvaceous bell-shaped skirt in luxurious fabric. The excessive use of fabric at first met with some opposition, but ceased as the wartime shortages ended. The "New Look" revolutionized women's dress and re-established Paris as the centre of the post-war fashion world. Following the "New Look" Dior constantly created designs that were newsworthy. His romantic styles were described by Janey Ironside of the Royal College of Art in London as a "new chance in life, a new love affair." This love affair continued throughout the 10 years of his tenure, and well until now. Each collection was met with raves, both critically and commercially. By the time he died in 1957, his name became synonymous with taste and luxury. The iconic name of Dior has lasted for 60 years remaining a great influence in the 20th and now the 21st century. His inspiration lived on moving from hand to hand with such designers as Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferre�, and now John Galliano, the British couturier-in-residence, who also marked his 10 years at the creative helm of the most renowned name in fashion. Galliano, born in Gibraltar with Spanish roots, paid homage to the legendary Dior against the background of Flamenco music and a parade of supermodels like Giselle Bundchen, and former supermodels like Linda Evangelista, who stole the show with her flaming red hair. The models strutted in dresses of sumptuous fabrics inspired by ideas of Dior and the paintings of Picasso, Renoir, Degas, and Goya. Galliano and Dior, strange as this may sound to some, are not that dissimilar. While Galliano tends to be more theatrical, "Dior was also a revolutionary, even if today he may look classical," said Bernard Arnault head of the LVMH (Luxury Goods Group), "He is like Picasso." Today Dior boutiques are everywhere with flagship stores in the main cities around the world, including Europe, Asia and the US. Dior is well represented in Egypt, by Brigitte le Fevre, who shows the Dior collection regularly. Last week fashion conscious Caireans had a peek at the ready-to-wear line of autumn/winter collection of 2007/2008, which followed the Galliano style, most pleasing to all in attendance. Perfume, furs, scarves, lingerie, shoes, handbags, jewelry, all sells, because they are signed by Dior. The world continues to look to Paris to dictate guidance in new trends and classic elegance. On his death of a heart attack, the Duchess of Windsor led the multitudes of mourners. 'Le Monde' hailed him as a man "identified with good taste, the art of living and refined culture, that epitomized Paris to the outside world." Fashion capital of the world, Paris still rocks! As good be out of the world, as out of fashion Colley Cibber (1671--1757)
