Restaurant review: We misjudge meat Gamal Nkrumah found a way around well-marbled meat -- the Wagyu way I've been twice now to the Oak Grill, primarily to appraise the flesh prepared in its oak-smoker, the first of its kind in Egypt. Perfectly tuned tastes of hors d'oeuvres are punctuated with generous mains showcasing distinctive Scandinavian seafood sophistication. The fish -- the freshest Norwegian salmon in town -- fell away in delicate dawn- tinted slivers. The tender Japanese beef was both filling and bursting with flavour, and most importantly was kind on the heart. It was, however, hard on the pocket. Here was a menu that teased all tastes. Apparently, much of the ingredients for the finest seared and smoked flesh hail from the heart of the Conrad Hilton's family farm in Ullensaker, in the scenic grandeur of southern Norway. The Oak Grill's meats are a paradigm with the Japanese. With well-marbled textures -- white flecks of fat fastened fastidiously within the burgundy beefy muscle. Small wonder then that the twang sends the taste buds reeling. The Conrad is a Mecca for the connoisseurs of Cairo. Gastronomic delights include the Oak Grill. The closing days of January marked the introduction of a special "Oyster Menu" -- the crustaceans served either poached with a delightful dressing of beet and shallot, or baked with a scrumptious crust encasing the creamiest mushrooms and most palatable parmesan. The flood of trendy restaurants in this particular corner of Cairo might have heightened interest in the area as an Epicurean destination. The revitalisation of the riverside panorama continues today with an influx of high-end restaurants and lively new shopping malls luring prospective big spenders. In short, that stretch of the Corniche between Garden City and Shubra has seen dramatic gentrification in recent years. The swift demolition of dilapidated buildings has been accompanied by the construction of skyscrapers and luxury hotels. Yes, there remain very tough alleyways and back streets in Boulaq, but in the Oak Grill, where the food business has morphed from gentle stirrings to a more purposeful disposition, well-heeled guests weave around the nightmarish subject of impoverished neighbourhoods. And cars don't get broken into. In décor and cuisine, the Oak Grill is typical in many respects of a fancy restaurant in a five-star hotel. Don't be intimidated or put off by the overly formal waiters. There was a striking similarity, in both presentation and colour, between the oak lacquered tables and oak-soaped seats on the one hand and the clear seafood soup and steaming jacketed potatoes on the other. For carnivores, February promises to be fantastic. Yes, there will be fillet mignon, American Angus and tenderloin steak. However, the highlight is the magical intra- muscular monounsaturated fats ideal for those of us endeavouring to uphold a low cholesterol diet. As our main courses arrive -- Norwegian salmon for her, Wagyu beef for me -- I compare and contrast her salmon with sea scallops and my Wagyu with American Angus beef. "We misjudge meat," she contends. Cholesterol is a subject she is all too familiar with. "Fear not with Wagyu," she assures me. There may be unintended consequences for gorging on raw Japanese seafood delicacies. "But as far as Wagyu is concerned, you are safe," my mentor reassures me. After the oysters, an impeccably executed Wagyu beef followed. The coal-black Tajima-ushi breed of Wagyu cattle is Japan's answer to Angus. Sometimes simply called Kobe beef, the tender meat of the unique Japanese cattle hails from Hyogo Prefecture. Wagyu beef is prepared in a sundry of Japanese styles -- sukiyaki, teppanyaki, shabu shabu, sashimi and motley more. Briefly we are distracted by a text message on my phone. "Stick to fish, a fastidious friend suggested." My less finicky companion counters, "Beef can be healthy, even when one opts for the Wagyu burgers of the Oak Grill." My companion patiently explains the salutary value of Wagyu beef. How wrong conventional wisdom can be. How could that possibly be, I ponder, as the waiter takes our order for dessert. "Green tea for me," I say as I push away the crumbs of this memorable eatery's signature Scandinavian breads. Oak Grill Conrad Cairo 1191 Corniche Al-Nile Tel: 2580 8000 Dinner for two: LE750
