Restaurant review: Cairo Tower: VIP hideout As the breeze glides over the polished floors to the rhythm of a live band, the Cairo Tower's light display shifts in a quick succession of colours, writes Giovanna Montalbetti We take the lift leading to the Cairo Tower's VIP Restaurant and Lounge. Almost invisible from the outside, this high- class restaurant was added during the Tower's latest renovation. So were the Galleria, a meeting and conference spot with a stylish yet homely feel, and the second-floor lounge. On entering, it becomes obvious that this restaurant was conceived with a very chic clientele in mind. An extreme care for details is perceptible from the ikebana-like calla lily arrangements to the elegant design of the cutlery, knives balancing on their blades like silver ice-skaters. The waiters' exquisite training and efficiency are surely among the reasons this place has become so popular amongst an elite in search of privacy, as they are constantly alert to the clients' needs while managing to remain largely imperceptible throughout the evening. Everything conveys a sense of intimacy. Even the hip jazz music has been regulated to minimise the singer's voice, as if to avoid it interfering with the guests' conversations. The small number of tables is strategically arranged to assure all dinner guests a privileged view out over Cairo. We decide on a Vitello Tonnato appetiser. If you have ever wondered what this Italian dish tastes like, then this is a good chance to find out, as the Cairo Tower's adaptation is light on the fish flavour, while allowing an easy "first contact" with this fish and meat combination in which veal medallions are layered on top of a balsamic-dressed salad and covered in tuna and caper foam. Although the salad could have done with some lemon, as vinaigrette adds extra oil to an already rich dish, it is definitively worth trying. Delicious Goat Cheese Salad merges the coolness of endives and oak-leaf lettuce with the warm crunchiness of deep-fried bread under goat cheese. The Arugula Shrimp Salad mixes greens and walnuts with parmesan shreds and sliced shrimps. If you want to control your fat intake, especially if you are considering having one of the VIP Restaurant's luscious desserts, ask for dressing on the side as the chef is generous with the oil. If calorie counting is not a problem, pamper yourself with some sun-dried tomatoes or the house's aromatic selection of cold grilled vegetables. The Seafood Soup with Leeks is a light, heart-warming alternative, consisting of a delicate broth laced with sliced shrimps and thinly oriental-style cut leeks and carrots. The house's flagship main course is Wagyu Sirloin Steak. For those unfamiliar with the term, Wagyu is a particular breed of beef that has a genetic predisposal to intense marbling resulting in a higher percentage of unsaturated fat than any other breed of cattle known. Because of this, Wagyu is not only healthier than regular beef, but needs a particular cooking process in order to retain its uncommon taste. Cairo Tower's VIP Restaurant offers a thick cut of succulent meat that may be accompanied by a choice of side-dishes and sauces. We trusted the chef's judgement, and he presented us with a tasty match between hot vegetables and potato wedges with aromatic herbs and the beef and the pepper sauce. The Oven-baked Salmon Steak, called "Cardinal", is covered in an almost mousse-like layer of spinach. With some vegetables, this is a perfect option when looking for a lighter and cholesterol-friendly choice. Then again, if pampering your taste-buds is your biggest concern, ask for one of the sauces that are available. "Indulge" commands the dessert carte, an order one willingly obeys. The Fruit Tiramisu constitutes a beautiful twist on the original, and the Chocolate Tower intertwines crisp chocolate layers with white and dark chocolate mousse. Both crowned with fresh cherries, they were brought in just as a full moon came into view. Simply perfect. VIP Restaurant and Lounge The Cairo Tower, Al-Zohriya Garden Street, Gezira Tel: 2736 5112 Dinner for two: LE1,200
