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Si, Señor!
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 10 - 05 - 2001

Injy El-Kashef discovers a sweet and sizzling Mexican
Apparently Youssef Wahbi composed music and painted -- facts I discovered at what remains of his villa in Haram. Around the colossal actor's former home is an exquisite Sheraton offspring called the Royal Gardens with several really interesting restaurants which this reviewer is sure to get to one day. In the meantime, his atelier is now integrated into Señor Pico, a delicious Mexican restaurant of particular interest right now, right here.
A toast: a succulent Piña Colada, a Matador -- sweet tomato juice, not Virgin Mary-style, seemingly without any salt, pepper or tabasco -- and a Little Pancho (yummy and sour guava juice with lemon). A round of appetisers: the Quesadillas Zacatas came in very impressive form while the Tostadas de Pollo in impressive content. A Halloween pumpkin type of set-up with the quesadillas lying on a huge orange porcelain bowl lit by a tea candle offered absolutely divine little tortilla cheese sandwiches topped with a toss of jalapeños. The pollo (chicken) was deep-fried in a rich batter and surrounded with the freshest lettuce leaves ever tasted in a restaurant, along with tomatoes, onions and a slick dressing.
I was clever enough to get the Fajitas. In a Mexican restaurant, the fajitas' dramatic entrance is a pleasure in itself. Sizzling hot, dozens of little plates, a basket full of fresh tortillas -- you cannot help but sully your fingers and lick 'em at the end of a busy meal. I like it like that. (They were perfect, but I have one bone to pick: no guacamole was available on any of the dishes despite the menu's promises.) My dining companions were equally happy with their main courses: one Carnita something or other -- a few scanty bites of beef swimming in a most delicious orange and onion sauce -- and the Pollo al Ribil -- half a grilled chicken seasoned with spices and herbs. All the main courses come with red rice and refried beans -- why does everyone eat the rice and leave the beans?
We had to get the sopapillas. They were out of this world, a must. However, I had to personally request the waiter to bring me a cinnamon stick from the kitchen as the pineapple and honey syrup was plain and no sopapilla that respects itself can do without cinnamon. The other dessert was the Pastel Coco, which consisted of three coconut pastries resting on a red sauce that tasted like strawberry jam. This yummy meal at this subtly but beautifully decorated restaurant cost us LE270.
Señor Pico, Sheraton Royal Gardens, Taha Hussein St, off Al-Haram St, Giza
Tel 781 2211 / 3311, ext 4520
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