As Marina expands beyond recognition, Gihan Shahine indulges Before I set out to Porto Marina, curious work mates insisted they would have to hear all about it when I got back. Not that the place is inaccessible; rather, perhaps, unaffordable, with a standard double room costing LE1,200-2,000 per night on a bed and breakfast basis. "I might as well go to Paris," one grumbled. And, true enough, the question never left my mind through the three and a half hour desert-flanked drive to the Mediterranean resort compound of Marina, 105km north of Alexandria, where this summer venue stands: what is so special about Porto Marina, that it should cost so much? The last time I visited Marina, early last summer, Porto Marina was no more than a mammoth skeleton emerging slowly on one of Marina's largest man-made lakes. Huge and promising as it looked, its secrets were as yet unrevealed. Now, as we wound down to the coast, memories of summer vacations cascaded through my mind: lounging on gold-white, powder-fine sand; watching the sun set over the azure sea as its waters stretched to the horizon; a crisp, cool breeze creeping into my lungs while I relished that salty scent unique to the Mediterranean. This time, justifiably, I had expectations beyond the classic ritual of beach lounging and salt-sprayed fun. But no sooner had we stepped into Porto Marina than it lived up to those expectations; here was a Mediterranean paradise to rival any in Greece or Spain. A somewhat tiring walk from the car park to the hotel premises was redeemed by a cool breath carrying Mediterranean tunes -- Greek, Spanish, Italian, you name it. It was a late summer afternoon and the two-storey hotel façade seemed to flare in a flamboyance of cheerful colours -- brick-red, orange, yellow, orange and white striped columns; the sun was playing on an idyllic man-made lake, lined with an array of yachts, palm trees and 19th-century lampposts. But there was nothing quiet about the bustling vacationers as they sauntered along the palm tree lined promenade overlooking the lake, relished the taste of coffee in an umbrella dotted seaside café -- there were several -- or posing to look at the flags lining the quay. At the hotel reception we were greeted with yet another scenic gondola lagoon -- yes, it stretches right across the building -- conjuring up images of Venice. Other receptions may be more luxurious, but the hospitable smiles of the staff made for truly royal treatment. Retiring to your room, you are already well disposed. The mood inside is remarkably relaxed, too. The luxury amenities and trendy furniture pales in comparison to the balcony view -- turquoise paradise and a lungful of bliss as you draw the curtains. What could be more perfect than a basket of seasonal fruit and a comprehensive list of all the water sports on offer. Ah well, I must leave my newfound cocoon and head out into the world. Nothing is particularly special about the hotel's private beach; you do appreciate it better when you remember that many private villa owners in Marina complain of trespassers. I might have missed the pristine beauty of wave lashed beaches, but this found sufficient compensation in the fact that North Coast shores are never as safe as a man-made lake for the inevitable plunge. Besides, the remarkably serene atmosphere of the beach was relaxing enough: light surf interrupted only by the chug of a yacht or the trail of a jet-ski, dreamy tunes of Fairouz adding to a mystique suitable for families and honeymooners alike. Those in outdoor activity mode, on the other hand, can head straight for the hammock beach, which stands on the other side of the lake and can be accessed by regular ferry: a wide range of activities, not to mention food, can be had alongside the usual beach lounging in the midst of palms. (At the time of my visit, the beach was as yet under construction, but there was no mistaking the pleasure it promised, horse-riding and open-air cinema being but two examples). The thought of reading on a hammock, swinging gently with a glass of tropical juice by your side, will immediately summon up an image of Hawaii. GATEWAY TO EGYPT: Beach lounging is not what Porto Marina is all about, though. "The main idea behind the project was to establish a tourist centre -- not just a hotel, but a world-class spa complex, a high-standard healthcare centre, a shopping mall including 560 brand-name shops, fun beaches, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a cinema complex, children playgrounds and a collection of food outlets offering various recipes from Italy, France, the US, China -- you name it." Thus said Amr Abdel-Samie, the director of Porto Marina Hotel. Such diversity is perhaps best summed up in the flags dotting the marina and the architecture of the hotel, which features a blend of Tunisian, Moroccan, Greek, Italian and Spanish styles. "We want to tell people that all the luxuries associated with Mediterranean beaches can be found right here -- that Porto Marina has it all. What you see before you is no more than a fraction of what we intend to have on offer." The very name Porto Marina reflects the fact that here is the first yacht marina on the eastern stretch of Mediterranean North Africa. Porto Marina is the brainchild of Mansour Amer, the founder of Amer Group. This involves Delmar, a leading resort developer in Egypt, and its sister company Tropicana, a casual dining company operating international chains like Chili's, Johnny Carino's and Alain Le Notre. The 500-berth marina is an official gateway to Egypt, a place where private yacht owners can have their vessels moored and furnished with all the basic needs: electricity, potable water, telephone lines, food and services, while enjoying an intense and varied experience. TOP CLASS HAVEN: Luxury is the name of the game and by next year, when the place is fully open, the hotel will boast a total of 650 rooms and suites (the latter priced at LE4,000-7,500), in addition to 1,200 privately owned studios. Those capable of paying LE7,500 a night will be treated to the utmost in luxury: round beds with a many-angled view of the lagoon. They will be able to draw the curtains or switch on a 60-inch LCD at the click of a finger, enjoying en suite Jacuzzi and immense lake-view terrace. Standard room guests will have access to a world-class spa where professional hair stylists can give them star treatment. Even I had a taste of what's to come. With a positively stunning range of water sports on offer, we opted for a quiet ferry tour instead (a boat trip around the marina costs LE800 per hour). The ferry went slowly, winding its way round narrow inlets and calling at chalets and villas with manicured gardens overlooking the lake. That salty Mediterranean scent hung in the air; and tiny splashes of water refreshed our faces as we bounced off towards the open sea. The boatman pointed out where the fishermen have their boats moored. As the sea started making us queasy, the boatman, laughing at our inexperience, quickly turned back... MATURE TOURISM: Marina, as one companion noted, is big, big enough to be a city, not just a resort complex. In 1998, when I first visited, it was no more than one huge lake and a coterie of private villas. Today Marina has expanded to unimaginable proportions, with Venice, an affiliate resort made up largely of lakes now connected to both Marina's original lake and the sea. From the viewpoint of the seafarer, Marina looks like a high-class resort asleep among lagoons, on the surface of which the upper crust is gliding with jet skis and yachts... The boatman slowed down as we approached an island of deluxe villas with a double front view of both lake and sea. "Those villas cost no less than LE10 million," he snapped, perhaps to spare us a painful disillusion, or commiserating. "They say they are for top officials. Just imagine how much money is poured into a house that will be abandoned the whole year except for a few weeks in the summer." And he has a point: Marina is a link in a seemingly endless chain of tourist villages -- in effect a euphemism for privately owned summer residence -- monopolising the North Coast from Alexandria to Al-Alamein; they draw in droves of vacationers in July and August but remain empty for the rest of the year. It was only a few years ago that officials noted down the inconsistent planning involved in spending so much on "dead cities"; they have since encouraged investment in the area as an all-year destination, whether for Egyptians or foreigners. There are now places for rent in almost all the "villages" and a few hotels have sprouted along the coastline, with quality health service, supermarkets, restaurants, cinemas and a range of recreational activities. Hilton Borg Al-Arab was the first five-star facility to open on the North Coast, standing 52km from Alexandria on the desert highway. The Aida Hotel, 77km from Alexandria on the way to Al-Alamein, offers less quality for a smaller price. The construction of two airports that receive British Airways and KLM chartered flights, at Borg Al-Arab and Al-Alamein, has encouraged business. The TUI Group has opened its latest facility in the spectacular and untouched Ghazala Bay; it will feature a huge golf course, six hotels, a shopping mall, and centres for water sports and horse riding as well as a rally course. Increasingly Marina itself is a focal point for investors, with a wide range of activities and private including exclusively female beaches. Remarkable is the Ocean Blue Hotel (+2 010 484 8248/484 8348/484 8648; www.oceanbluemarina.com ), a five-star facility offering a range of chalets directly overlooking a lagoon and featuring a Jacuzzi in the terrace of every one, and a women-only beach (LE70 per person with one complimentary entry per stay); a double bedroom chalet costs LE2,000, 2,500 on weekends during July, and LE2,500-LE3,000 in August). The hotel plans to have more rooms, swimming pools and recreational activities. More affordable options include four-star Maxim Inn (+2 046 445 3396/7), the four-star Marina Plaza and the five-star Sea Gull (+0246 406 1464). More information including comprehensive listings can be found at the Marina tourist centre (+2 046 406 0501). Will ventures like this break through the intrinsically seasonal nature of the place? Citing success stories from Tunisia, Abdel-Samie shrugs off all such concern. Porto Marina is marketing itself among European tourists "for whom 10 degrees is still warm". He adds, "it gets windy for no more than 30 days in winter; and we've penciled them down on our calendars while signing contracts with tour agents in Italy, Switzerland, England and Belgium, who all promised to send tourists this winter." Porto Marina's indoor activities and its proximity to the Al-Alamein Museum and WWII cemeteries, he adds, are additional assets. EVENING ROMANCE: Our ferry brought us back to our five-star haven at sunset, a time when visitors crowd the promenade to catch a glimpse of the breathtaking view -- a golden hour for photography, whether you have the lake in the background or concentrate on the rainbow colours of the hotel, with its umbrella-dotted cafés and gondola lagoon. The salt-sprayed air conspired with the smell of food to give us huge appetites and we had some time to choose among the Italian Johnny Carino's, the French Alain Le Notre, the American Chili's, and Egyptian barbecue, Studio Masr. We went for Carino's, where I had a delicious chicken soup followed by a steak soaked in mushroom sauce and served with Italian Pasta -- a rich meal that left me in dire need for a leisurely walk down the by now romantically lit promenade where Greek hymns and pop oldies added their bit. A car tour of Marina revealed swarms of vacationers munching on fresh pastries and sweets ( fiteer, zalabya and a range of other delicacies) or watching films displayed on big screens. Marina features a huge number of fast food chains as well as elegant, dimly lit cafés and restaurants. A TREK THROUGH HISTORY: The next morning, after a relaxed breakfast -- French cheese, smoked salmon, seasonal fruit and pastries from all over the world as well, of course, as coffee -- we headed for the WWII battle site of Al-Alamein, the spot that changed the course of modern history back in 1942. Some 45,500 German, Italian and British soldiers lost their lives here, as Field Marshall Montgomery's Eighth Army won a decisive victory over the German-Italian Africa Korps led by Field Marshal Erwin Rommel, chasing them out of Egypt. The museum and cemeteries are a must-see for anyone interested in modern history. In the former, photos and statues recreate the harsh life of the soldiers, showing them digging, eating or writing home. Uniforms and war camp artefacts add to the sense of immediacy. FRESH FISH FAREWELL: It is almost sunset and we're back in our room packing for the heartbreaking departure. Before kissing the dock good-bye, we will have a fish meal in Porto Marina's Halaqet Al-Samak (the fish-ring) which literally stands in the middle of the lake offering up all manner of mouthwatering fresh fish. Once again, a very romantic ambiance makes for a memorable denouement. How to get there: Marina stands 5 km from the new Al-Alamein Airport and 60km from Borg Al-Arab Airport. Al-Alamein airport receives direct international flights from London every week, while British Airways and KLM organise daily trips to Borg Al-Arab. For reservation, Porto Marina's web booking engine www.porto-marina.com will provide you with all the information you need, including rates and organised trips. If you are in Cairo or Alexandria, however, going by car is your best bet; the mobility a car provides along the North Coast and within Marina more than makes up for the three and half hour trip; and if you take the shortcut via Al-Alamein Road, which starts just after a highway café called Master to your left, that takes some 45km off the trip. Super Jet and West Delta buses go to Marina from Almaza Square, the Torgoman Station in Tahrir and Giza every hour on the hour; keep in mind that the West Delta bus stops frequently and takes four to five hours to get there.
