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Influencing the Conquistadors
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 11 - 01 - 2007

There is no better place of Arab and European cultures assimilating than Cordoba and Granada. Rehab Saad flew to Andalusia to explore the historic melting pot
I thought I was going to Frankfurt; that's what they told me. I refreshed my memory of the German I might need at the airport, on the streets or in shops. I read up on the city, including landmarks like the Alte Oper (the old Opera House), the Skyline, Goethe House and Romerberg (the historical old town), the restaurants, cafés, shops and night spots. I even prepared my shopping list with addresses of shops with the best deals.
Within days, I headed to the airport to join a trip to Frankfurt organised by the German Airline Lufthansa for Arab journalists, on the occasion of its 50th anniversary serving the Arab region. We took the Cairo-Frankfurt flight and were served a unique breakfast, a fusion of European and Arab dishes which tantalised the palate. Many popular Arab dishes were mixed with European items such as a saddle of lamb in a coffee bean crust, fish with koshari, and lamb with red lentils. In fact, the airline is serving a new Arab cuisine menu in first and business class on all routes in the region as part of celebrations.
While Lufthansa's new menu aims to establish culinary links between the Orient and Occident, the airline believes Andalusia -- or South of Spain as the Spanish call it -- is the place to go to witness where both Arab and European cultures once merged and fused on the ground. Hence, the historic region was the real destination of this little adventure. Mid-air on our way to Frankfurt, we found out that shortly after arriving we will travel on to Malaga and then by bus to Cordoba.
On terra firma and on our way to the famous Spanish city, the plush green mountains wrapped around us in every direction, and although it was dusk and raining, a rainbow was clearly visible behind the mountains. After three hours, we reached Cordoba in the still of the night; the streets were empty and the shops were shuttered until morning.
After checking in at Alfaros downtown hotel, the group went out to a local restaurant which served typical Spanish dishes such as Paella (rice with saffron, meat, chicken, fish and shells), Khamoun (dried pork meat), octopus with olive oil, various Mediterranean fish, fried vegetables and pickles. It took the waiter about 30 minutes to take our order because he didn't speak English and we didn't speak Spanish. In fact, most Spaniards only know their native language -- the only exceptions were our tour guides at Mezquita or the Mosque- Cathedral in Cordoba, and Alhambra Palace in Granada. Despite the chore of ordering our meals, service after that was excellent, the food appeared quickly, was garnished beautifully and tasted delicious.
Spain is very unique from other European countries because it is an authentic blend of East and West, which is probably why it appeals to many Egyptians and Arabs. It has Europe's professional service in a picturesque setting, but at the same time it exudes the warmth of the East through its people and climate. Spaniards sometimes don't even resemble most other Europeans, but look more Arab or Mediterranean. According to our guide this is the result of intermarriage between Spaniards and Moors over hundreds of years, especially in southern Spain.
Another characteristic that sets Spain apart from other European cultures is that the day starts a little later than most. While most in Europe are having lunch at noon, in Spain this is considered breakfast and very rarely is there a restaurant serving lunch at that time.
City centres are similar to downtown Cairo strewn with shop arcades, restaurants, cafes and street vendors. At historical sites like Mezquita, beggars -- mostly gypsies -- unabashedly asking tourists for money and street vendors sell herbs and spices to tourists. This is an uncommon sight in most other European cities, but is not alien to our part of the world. The best thing about Spanish historical sites, especially in the south, is the fact that they are well kept, clean, organised and surrounded by orange trees which add beauty to the place and spread a delectable odour.
I expected Mezquita to be similar to the scores of beautiful mosques in Egypt and around the world, but I was mistaken. The Mosque-Cathedral, believed to be the oldest building still standing and in use in Spain, has exquisite architecture and unique character. Its peculiar history began as a grand Moorish mosque and ended as a Diocesan cathedral; as early as the 15th century, Mezquita was claimed to be one of the Wonders of the World and in 1984 was finally declared World Patrimony.
The Mosque-Cathedral was built on the banks of the Guadalquivir during Caliph rule and originally stood next to the Omeya fortress, flanked by three Moorish baths. The whole formed a unique site which the city later took as its seal, along with the main bridge and the Albolafia waterwheel. The building went through two principal historic phases: the Moorish phase which began at its construction in the eighth century until 1236; and the Christian phase from 1236 until today. It was on 29 June, 1236, that upon reconquering the city Christians consecrated the former mosque as a Christian church dedicated to Saint Mary. Within three years, it was converted into a cathedral after the ceremony investing its first bishop, Lope de Fitero.
After visiting Mezquita, shopping and lunching at a quaint local restaurant, we embarked on a two-hour drive towards Granada. There, we checked in at Nazaria Hotel and at night were treated to a Flamenco show. The cabaret was a little too dim and small, but was able to accommodate a reasonable number of spectators around the stage. As I listened to the songs and music, I was reminded of the Egyptian mawwal. And to bring things even closer to home, the show concluded with a belly dancer gyrating to Spanish rather than oriental music. But to be quite honest, I didn't feel the obviously foreign music was attuned to the dancer's curvaceous moves.
Very early the next morning, we headed to Alhambra where long queues of tourists and schoolchildren waited at the gates of the famous site. Upon entering, we found ourselves surrounded by palaces, plush gardens, fountains, statues and tales of love, loyalty and conspiracy. The name Alhambra comes from the Arabic "red or crimson castle", perhaps due to the hue of the towers and walls that surround the entire hill of La Sabica -- which by starlight is silver but by sunlight is transformed into gold.
Originally built for military purposes in the ninth century, Alhambra was an alcazaba (fortress), an alcazar (palace) and a small medina (city) all in one. There is no reference to Alhambra being the home of kings until the 13th century, and nothing remains of the palaces of the first kings of Granada, the Zirites, located on the Albaicin Hill.
The Nasrites were probably the emirs who built Alhambra beginning in 1238. The founder of the dynasty, Mohamed Al-Ahmar, began with the restoration of the old fortress. His work was completed by his son Mohamed II, whose immediate successors also continued with repairs. The construction of the palaces called Casa Real Vieja (old Royal House or Palace) dates back to the 14th century and is the work of two great kings, Yusuf I and his son Mohamed V. The former established the Cuarto de Comares (Chamber of Comares), the Puerta de la Justicia (Gate of Justice), the baths and some towers. Mohamed V completed the beautification of the palaces with the Cuarto de los Leones (Chamber of the Lions), as well as other rooms and fortifications.
Alhambra became a Christian court in 1492 when the Catholic monarchs Ferdinand and Isabel conquered the city of Granada. Later, various structures were built for prominent figures, as well as military garrisons, a church and a Franciscan monastery. Many were inspired by Alhambra, including Prince Mohamed Ali of Egypt who regarded it as a masterpiece in Islamic design and architecture. He even copied some parts of it at the Manial Palace in Cairo.
Leaving Alhambra, it was clear that this truly is the site of a harmonious blend of Islamic and European cultures.


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