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The must-have dress
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 01 - 03 - 2007

Inas Mazhar peers down the catwalk for the hottest looks of the coming spring and summer
Women are women, and men are men. Over the past couple of decades fashion trends have moved towards the more care-free and casual look -- women were dressing more and more like men. However, a transition is underway and elegance is becoming the name of the game. The new look is bringing neater lines with a softer, more feminine appeal. In essence it is more classic, which is great news for those of us who like the choice of dressing in a more feminine way.
Seeking the latest lines of fashion of the coming summer and spring, I set off for the design shop of the leading Egyptian designer Marie Louis. It wasn't a traditional interview by any means.
The trappings of fashion were everywhere -- samples of fabrics, snippets and accessories, photographs of models and a large chart plastered with sketches of Louis's new collection. To her, the fashion business needs 100 per cent devotion: "it's a 24/7 job," she says. "And this applies to every other designers all over the world."
Louis, who attributes her success to her own mother's influence, has broken international barriers and shown her collections abroad. Recently her evening gown designs received much praise in the Prêt-à-Porter Fashion show in France, opening new markets for Egyptian designs in Europe and Arab countries. Louis revealed to Al-Ahram Weekly that she used to have her own brand store in Germany, but two years after her mother's death -- who was in charge of that branch -- it was shut down.
Three major fairs are held every year in Italy, France and the Far East, where designers meet from all over the world and are introduced to the new lines and colours, supplies, fabrics, trends, accessories and proposals for the coming season.
"This season expects lively bright colours," Louis says. "It's an interesting combination of all tones of green and turquoise, lots of gold and silver with on and off whites. The summer look will also require investing in the very richest materials, big buttons, with a lot of Geubeure and dentelle to decorate.
The strongest colours in this spring fashion palette are strawberry ice, apricot gold, silver, green and blue. "Brilliant blue is likely to gain in popularity as the season progresses," Louis says. Yet various sorbet tones create the tonal soft chalky dimension of many of Spring 2007 seasonal fashion colours, while the coming summer will see us wearing golden apricot, sky blue, opal grey, clear greens and coffee cream.
"All these colours follow through on autumn's most important fashion colours," she adds. Golden liquid sunshine looks and gold lame swinging dresses with disco glamour are the mainstay of futuristic fabrics. These tones make gleaming dresses with a lacquer-like sheen.
Sharp colour combinations have their part in spring 2007, including monochrome black and white prints or the darkest navy blue teamed or trimmed with red.
"The old black and white scheme is always fashionable," Louis says. Sky blue, electric blue and brilliant ultramarine blue are a welcome return to the fashion trends within the colour palette. The chalky pastel colours of the hue are of summer romance -- the softest blues, mauves, orchid pinks and the most delicate of chalky violets all work especially well as sweet wrapper metallic colours.
Moving from colours to styles, Louis says that this season is about truly being a lady, which means lots of dresses and skirts. Dresses in every different style and shape are going to be the master of the collection this summer and next winter as well. "Short dresses and mini-skirts with lots of fluid fabrics, drapes and bustiers on the tops will mark this summer's fashion." Trousers are also expected to be popular, and will include Capri pants. Bermuda shorts will appear again.
Whereas in previous seasons, highlighting the waist was dropped in favour of the pelvic line, the trend now has the belt back up to the waist from the hip, as women have again become more used to the idea of waist importance. "The high waistline has developed as a noticeable trend in all types of clothing, including skirts, pants and jackets," Louis says. "Deep corset belts can easily make any dress high-waisted. Short, cute dresses and micro- minis are one of the key pieces for fashion conscious-women this spring. Other key pieces for the spring and summer season are also dress- inspired and include the smock, the parka dress and, in complete contrast, the maxi dress."
As for hairstyles, Gamal El-Barbari, owner of a well-known beauty centre in Heliopolis, believes that the best time to update one's look is spring or summer. "Braids are perfect for warm weather," he says. "They're practical, fresh and flattering for any hair texture or type."
El-Barbari goes for the dark-haired beauties look as it is best in intense heat. He also likes bright shades like fire engine red and electric blue, while "lighter-haired ladies can pull off paler shades like cotton candy pink," he advises. Another option for blond hair is to try a few black streaks for a modern yet retro look.
According to Nabila Mohamed, the beauty expert working with El-Barbari, make-up in summer 2007 will be a graphic one with "stark contrasts: ghostly pale complexion, crimson red lipstick, or heavily-outlined, smoke- smudged eyes."
Lip gloss is still hot this season, Mohamed adds. "When it comes to gloss, think sheer neutral shades." The smoky eye is also still in style, but only when paired with neutral lips and soft cheeks.
"Great colours for an updated smoky look include bronze, eggplant and navy," Mohamed says.
The right accessories are as important as the clothes, and the hottest trends in fragrance this summer are scents that are food-inspired. Chocolate, vanilla, cinnamon and fruit scents will be popping up everywhere. International fashion fairs recommend using Tuxedo- inspired tailoring and graphic "dandy" combinations. Thick platform high-heeled sandals, chisel-toe and snub-toe shoes will be fashionable this season. Huge dark sun glasses and small clutch purses will add to the look.
All in all, spring-summer 2007 promises to be an interesting season with some really fresh fashion looks. According to Louis, the key fashion trends hinge on futuristic space age looks, gleaming iridescent fabrics, romantic folkloric delicate softness and body conscious sculpting. "You get to know your own body shape and go with the flow of what suits you and looks good on you," she adds. "You must review your haircut, make-up and footwear choices before analysing the general fashion looks as to integrate them with appeal into a new season and to a new you."


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