Fayoum's Zad Mosafer, known among Egyptian writers as a refuge for the mind and soul, reaped mixed reviews on the Al-Masry Al-Youm English retreat last month. Reporters and editors gathered there for a weekend of brainstorming about the future of the online publication and the exciting development of a print edition. Approximately two hours from Cairo, Zad Mosafer is not in Fayoum proper but located just outside the city, past Naguib Sawiris' recently-constructed compound, Byoum. Zad Mosafer is a mere five minute walk from the shore of Lake Qarun. At Zad Mosafer, you have two choices: either the “eco” rooms — ground floor “nests,” as they are cheekily named — that accommodate 3–6 people and have their own bathrooms but no air conditioning, or newer rooms on the second floor which are more comfortably ventilated. Zad Mosafer is originally the Fayoum residence of Abdu Goubeer, who developed the property at the suggestion of friends and acquaintances who frequented Goubeer's house on the weekends. Goubeer still mingles with the guests; he is frequently planted in the courtyard with a cup of tea and a newspaper. Zad Mosafer has a playground for children, a small shop selling pottery and handicrafts made in Fayoum and a swimming pool which you can use each day for a mere LE10. For our purposes, the common areas at Zad Mosafer could not have been better. The top floor of the reception area is a “meeting room,” in which klim (rag woven carpets) and cushions litter the floor around low tables, and windows open on both sides provide a nice breeze. We spent most of our trip in this area, and the view, the breeze and the constant supply of french fries and Turkish coffee kept our blood and our minds pumping. Since we were a large group, lunch and dinner were pre-planned and ordered in the kitchen, known in Zad Mosafer as al-Mendada (the table). The culinary selections inspired mixed reviews — the fish was a little dry, the pasta a little mushy and the chicken oddly spiced. As it is labeled a getaway and retreat for writers, it goes without saying that Zad Mosafer is quiet. For a city dweller such as myself, this meant adjusting to sounds from rapidly crawling ants to scuttling lizards. And with a ground floor room, both ants and lizards were in abundance. So, is Zad Mosafer an inspirational spot for writers? Can one stomach the food, ignore the cold-blooded roommates and calmly brush off the insects to find peace and epiphany? It seems that one can. For your own little piece of quiet in the countryside, Zad Mosafer's guest house can be contacted by phone at either 0846820180 or 01006395590. This writer recommends that you visit in the winter to avoid the bugs, bring snacks in case you dislike the food and, above all, soak in the silence. Zad Mosafer does not have wireless internet, but it does have electricity, so pack a USB internet stick if you absolutely must remain connected. Otherwise, bring a picnic blanket and spend your days lying in the grass in the courtyard with a good book!
