Restaurant review: Fixing and mixing Hanan Radwan experiences the combination of the Asian food These days, "fusion food" is a term that has been used and misused so extensively (and carelessly) that one is left to wonder: is it "fusion" or "confusion" that reigns in the world of cuisine? A chef may add a little soy sauce to a bowl of pasta and happily dub the dish a fusion creation. Clearly, there must be more to the concept of fusion cuisine than meets the palate. But when it comes to Fusion, the Asian restaurant that has recently opened a branch in Mohandessin, the concept takes on a different meaning. Here, you do not find the chefs dabbling with miscellaneous ingredients from East and West just to make a difference. Each dish pays authentic tribute to its country of origin. "Fusion" here mainly refers to the cramming of dishes from China, Japan, Thailand and India in one menu. But the result is far from offensive, and the food is surprisingly good. Take the décor, for example. The restaurant makes up for the lack of a Nile view -- enjoyed by customers of the Maadi branch -- by enveloping its guests in warm and subtle hues of red, white and black on the walls, paintings, chairs, and even the waiters' costumes. Pictures of Japanese geisha girls quietly blend with Chinese calligraphy and sketches of Thai sculptures and monk robes. Gentle New Age music -- including a modern rendition of one of Um Kolthoum's songs -- murmurs imperceptibly in the background. And an excellent lighting job makes customers feel relaxed yet able to read the menu. Planning our dinner, my friend and I chose to skip Japan and try the flavours of Hong Kong, Mongolia -- and of course, China. During previous visits to the Maadi branch, I had sampled the Japanese tepanyaki and sushi dishes and emerged a happy fan of the restaurant, and eager to return to try the other fare. A platter of plump vegetable spring rolls served with a sweet chili sauce was a befitting starter. Truncated diagonally, the rolls were thankfully made with authentic, not filo, pastry that crunched and cracked noisily as we bit into it, leaving messy bits on our plates. The chicken and shrimp Wanton soup, however, was a disappointment. A watery brew with a handful of spring onion pieces floating mournfully about, the soup contained three sacs of half-cooked dough that encased two small cubes of insipid meat. Knowing nothing about Mongolia, I opted for the Mongolian chicken and decided I liked the country. Generous cubes of thigh meat came swathed in a thick brown Hoisin sauce and sprayed with toasted sesame seeds. At last, a dish in which the addition of ginger does not make one feel like having swallowed half a bottle of designer perfume. My friend's Hong Kong black pepper beef was pronounced excellent. Like most of the restaurant's dishes, the meat cubes were plentiful and came in a platter crowded with a colorful array of vegetables like spring onions, leeks, bell peppers, and Chinese cabbage. Peppercorn bits burst wickedly between the teeth, tickling the palate and teaming up well with the flavour of the meat and sauce. Although not on the menu, the glass noodles with vegetables is a must try. Stir fried in soy sauce, the translucent noodles were delectable, meandering around slivers of zucchini, carrots and spongy shiitake mushrooms. We also shared a delightful vegetable chop suey which, amongst other vegetables, included Shiitake mushrooms, baby corn and bean sprouts, all bathed in a delightful combination of soy sauce, ginger, and a hint of sesame oil. All in all, our "Fusion" experience left us still unclear about the use of the term, but so well fed and satisfied that we gladly agreed to leave it to gastronomic researchers to figure it out. Fusion 22 Abdel-Moneim Riyad St from Al-Batal Ahmed Abdel-Aziz St, Mohandessin Tel: 3762 5252 Dinner for two: LE170
