Restaurant review: A sensual provocation Gamal Nkrumah discovers the perfect foil for eel and other oily fish The eels were luscious -- alive and writhing lazily -- death pangs, I suppose. The happy couple were starving, and I was in a rapturous mood. The prospective groom looked hungrily at his bride, and then proceeded to set upon the by-now piping hot eel immersed in fresh tomato and onion stew, its natural oils oozing out in mouth-watering profusion. The bride-to- be refused to touch the "slippery snake". She looked on in utter disgust and horror as he gulped down the oleaginous spread of free grub. "Dig in," I urged them both. "Grub up." Minimalist chic at best, Kasten hardly provides the perfect setting for a romantic evening. It is functionally, but scantily furnished and the overwhelming colour scheme is green -- a verdant mix of lime and pistachio. And, many of the celebrities that frequented this eatery are photographed and pose proudly with the chefs and one of the proprietors of the place. I spotted the dark and handsome veteran actor Mahmoud Yassin and late swarthy heart-breaker Ahmed Zaki. However, don't expect candle-lit tables and elegant chandeliers, but comfortable seating is guaranteed. But, at least the service was fast and efficient and the waiters friendly with a ready smile. The headwaiter came to the rescue. He came with a toothy smile that provided something of a warming welcome. "Can I help," he asked inquisitively, but instead started to tell a crackling yarn about the fabled Kasten fish. We, however, stuck to our choice of fish. The red mullet was deep-fried crisp and crunchy. The grey mullet, another equally unctuous dish, was dripping with lemon juice and olive oil, actually a delectable combination. The tomatoes, a delicious side dish, were drenched in garlic and coriander. I decided that this was not an evening to worry over calories and cholesterol. It was wet and windy outside, and bitterly cold. We sat next to the window, though -- the ventilation was not up to par. "It smells very fishy in here," the prospective bride thumbed her nose at the waiters. The pungent smell of fish, indeed, filled our nostrils. The fastidious bride-to-be turned her nose at the menu a diminutive waiter produced. "Just eat and stop being such a fusspot," I snapped. The deep fried prawns were divine, and we devoured them in less than five minutes. Another greasy side dish was the garlicky aubergine, richly daubed in parsley and chilly. Then there were the pickles, cauliflower, carrot, beet, parsnip and gerkins galore. This is certainly one of my favourite fish restaurants. And, apparently it was a favourite of many actors and actresses. It is an obviously popular restaurant with a huge turnover, the main characteristic of a good restaurant. The mezz a (side dishes) is one of the great culinary traditions of the Egyptian fish dishes, but at Kasten don't expect a lavish repast. The strains of Oriental music suddenly drifted in from somewhere in the restaurant. The enchanting melodies of Um Kolthoum, Mohamed Abdul-Wahab and Farid Al-Atrash filled the air. The cosy restaurant was transformed, suddenly alive and full of life. The food was delayed for some undeclared reason. The happy couple were by now ravenous. The fish was prepared according to the strict stipulations of traditional Egyptian fish cuisine. Kasten is not considered a particularly expensive eatery. The restaurant essentially caters to clients with very traditional Egyptian tastes. We were a bit undecided as to what fish to sample. My companions craved prawns. I reluctantly succumbed to their pleas for deep fried prawns, even though I rather preferred crabs myself. It was obviously going to be a fat-saturated and cholesterol- clogged dinner. The mullet was our favourite, for barbouni as it is called in Egypt, is a favourite starter. Mullus barbatus, to give it its scientific name, is a highly prized small fish popular throughout the Mediterranean. It is rich in protein, iodine and phosphorus. In Egypt, it is traditionally deep fried. And, fish is generally savoured at restaurants, as opposed to being prepared at home. The prices are very reasonable, though. I'll certainly be back to gorge myself on even more unctuous seafood. Reviewed order for two: LE280 Tel: 338 4516 12 Amin Al-Rafei Street, Midan Al-Messaha Doqqi, Giza
