By Lubna Abdel-Aziz He possesses all the charm, the allure, the magic of his native Italy where he was born. He likewise exemplifies all the sophistication, the elegance and the refinement of his beloved France, where he studied his craft. By combining the attributes of both, plus some of his own, he rose above the fray to become Italy's sublime couturier of the century. He is the unmistakable Valentino who bade farewell to haute couture and the beau monde only a few weeks ago January 23rd by showing his ultimate couture collection -- the 90th of his career. "The Last Emperor," as he is now called, took his final walk on the runway amidst tumultuous applause from 900 invited attendants. It was a dazzling array of the world's most beautiful people, which included European royalty, Hollywood film stars, devoted clients from among the aristocrats and the aristocats, as well as fellow designers, models and his many friends, who came to their Musee Rodin on the left bank un Paris, to share with him his triumphant exit. All have enjoyed his creations as well as his friendship through the years. Renowned for indulging in 'La Dolce Vita,' Valentino is also credited for inventing the Dolce Vita style in fashion, while enjoying his many domiciles, palazzos, mansions, villas, luxury apartments, yachts, and seaside resorts. The Dolce Vita was his passion in fashion and in life. The distinctive features of Valentino have left their mark on fashion history, making him the unmistakable maestro of Italian couture. The rise of Valentino coincided with the furore by Federico Fellini's 1960 film La Dolce Vita (1960). After two world wars, Rome was ready to spread its wings and fly, soaring to the highest heavens. There was a strong compulsion to make up for times lost to pain and bloodshed. It was a time when the buxomy Swede Anita Ekberg took a dip in the waters of the Fonatana di Trevi, shocking the whole world. Rome became the open city of pleasure, basking in the sunshine of peace and prosperity. Dazzled by its reputation, Hollywood packed its bags and moved to the magnetic city, establishing "Hollywood on the Tiber" whilst adding star power, excitement and moltissimo dollars to the bewitching Rome. The word spread that a brilliant young designer, a genuine creator of fashion, had opened his atelier doors. One by one they came, and were totally seduced by Valention's the genius. By the end of the 60s, he was the recipient of what was considered the Oscar in the fashion field-- the Neiman Marcus Award (1967). His list of clients was spectacular, including the Begoum Agha Khan, Farah Deeba, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Liz Taylor, Princess Margaret among others, who were also his friends. In 1968 Valentino presented an unforgettable "White Collection" (Collezione Bianca) where he invented the use of the magic "V" monogram as a distinguishing decorative feature which appeared on fabrics and accessories, buttons, buckles, and bows. The idea took off like wildfire and every other designer started his own logo. It was only the first in a string of ideas that would change fashion history. V was also the first to launch a ready-to-wear collection for men and women, to open boutiques in Rome, Milan, Paris, and the US, to draw up the licensing agreement for worldwide fabrication of his creations, to devise advertising campaigns with the world's greatest photographers. The first time the Metropolitan Museum of New York opened its doors to fashion was to none other than Valentino in 1982. Throughout his many successes Valentino is also applauded for his charitable works. In 1990 he founded LIFT to help children with HIV under the patronage of Elizabeth Taylor. He has also donated the proceeds from his exhibitions to several child welfare organizations. Valentino was born in Voghera Lombardi in Italy in May of 1932 to Teresa de Braggi and Mauro Garavanni. He apprenticed under his aunt Rosa and local designer Ernestina Salvadeo. At 17 he packed his bags and headed for the Fashion Capital of the world, Paris. There he studied at the Ecole des Beaux Arts, and the Chambre Syndicate de la Couture Parisienne. He worked with Jacques Fath and Balenciaga, apprenticed under Jean Desses and Guy La Roche. By 1959 it was time to return to Rome, where destiny awaited him. He met his lifelong friend and business associate Giancarlo Giammetti. Giammetti's entrepreneurial genius and Valentino's incredible creativity was a marriage made in heaven, and indeed the heavens have been smiling on them ever since. He leaves the fashion world at his zenith with a solid legacy that may be hard to maintain by the newly appointed designer for the House of Valentino, Allessandrsa Facchionette, formerly of Gucci. He may be fully retired from the world stage of fashion, but Valentino will continue to spread his magic by designing opera costumes and developing a museum of his clothes in Rome. Criticized by some as always being Valentino, and not daring enough to venture further like the great masters Christian Dior, Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent. Valentino remained true to his classic style. Perhaps more conservative and predictable, but forever ethereal, romantic, feminine, and utterly chic. His concept of elegance and beauty was an exercise of glamour for the sake of glamour, and glamour is the craving of every woman. Valentino was a lover of women, of fashion, family, friends, food, flowers, art and dogs; He lived well and gave his profession his all. What a life to have had! He sauntered for the last time on the catwalk, blowing kisses, left hand in pocket, smiling and waving, as videos projected endless models in identical red dresses, his signature colour on both walls, while simultaneously the very same models appearing with him on the catwalk. The crowd went wild, the applause deasening. Cool and self-assured as always, he seemed a little teary as he waved goodbye. "I am not sad," he explained, "I have had a wonderful life in fashion, rich in so many memories." We too are the richer for so many memories to cherish. So, thanks for the memories Valentino, for all the fashion and the glamour you bestowed upon us. Wiping away a tear, we too bid you a fond farewell. We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence is therefore, not an act, but a habit. Aristotle (384-322 BC)
