Restaurant review: All things nice From a standing start, Gamal Nkrumah has fallen deeply in love with Spice The waitress, who wears her blue black hair in bunches and periodically bursts into fits of girlie giggles, was delightful. She recommended dim sum and I affirmatively obliged. The stuff, after all, with its rich subtle flavours, is delectable. I was expecting Cantonese cuisine at its best and I knew I was about to experience a moment of existential angst. Spice is intellectually provocative. The Asiatic interior design is tasteful. Everything on the menu is as delicious as it is authentic, truly original. The deft touch of the starters carries over to the main. The cooking which is Cantonese, sort of southeast-Asian fusion, is excellent. Overlooking the Nile, Spice is a restaurant that appears to be created for aggrandisement or for great entertainment. Yet Spice is relaxed, child-friendly and a great hit with young Cairene families at the weekends. Those looking for the great Asian food experience at the weekend should head for the Nilotic Spice. The waitresses are gorgeous. They swarm around the extraordinary menagerie, where exotic creatures like jade Buddhas abound. And the waitress beckons. I ask for her favourite dish. She answers with an expressively raised eyebrow and a softly murmured "Very good, sir." They are just a bunch of deviant Asian women. Certainly no one can accuse them of failing to perform due diligence. My youngest son, Youssef, was not impressed. "Noodles," he chortled. What about the deep fried kunafa prawn rolls? "No". Steamed lobster scallop with crab meat dumplings? "No, thanks." And, so it was noodles. I was thoroughly impressed by the bone builders and power boosters menus for children at Spice. Mind you, both children turned down the lentil nutrition -- boiled and mashed lentils. They toyed with the idea of lemon-battered fish-fingers and the tuna sandwich with potato chips, but I was not having that at such an esteemed establishment as the Four Seasons -- we could have that at McDonalds, I explained. "Now, what about deep fried crispy eel with sesame seeds?" Or sautéed prawn Sichuan style? Sir fried beef with ginger and spring onion in oyster sauce? Roast duck with dried scallops and bamboo shoot soup? I insisted on the heavenly pan fried minced shrimp and fish cake, though. And, the bamboo fungus with prawn soup went down very well. The culinary interpretations are by Executive Chef Christophe Gillino, French by birth, but international chef de cuisine par excellence. He is the sort of chef that comes up with a starter such as hot pumpkin soup with calamari and saffron gnocci served with rucola pesto and crayfish. Can I seriously resist? His comestibles are charming. Pan-fried foie gras salad served with dried Seville oranges, carrot chutney and red endives. Yes, red. Scarlet is a colour that comes in profusion at Spice. Chilled stuffed cannelloni served with lamb, mushroom and eggplant salad, ratatouille coulis, and trio of bell peppers -- red, gold and green. The Friday dim sum buffet at Spice is arguably the best in all of Egypt. It starts promptly at 1pm till 4pm. Don't miss it, no matter what. Located on the second floor, Spice is nice and it rivals Aqua which offers a totally different cuisine and gourmet experience. Braised asparagus bouquet, green pea purée and sautéed black chanterelles, crispy bresaola and sun dried tomato. Stuffed taguatelle with crab and ricotta. Glazed beef medallions, sesame chips, porcini mushroom, soya and ginger sauce? And, how about black peppered roasted darne of salmon, Dijon mustard cream, basil coulis? Or, the duo of honey vacherin and raspberry pyramids? Karim, my eldest son, with a penchant for prawns, ordered steamed ginseng chicken and shrimp dumplings. Divine, I hasten to add. The crispy crab claw coated with shrimp paste and almonds and the steamed shark fin dumplings with shrimp was an indescribable experience. Those looking for great Asian food at the weekend should head for Spice, for in it they would surely find everything nice. Will other Asian chefs and restaurateurs in Cairo please take note? Spice Four Seasons, Nile Plaza 1089 Corniche Al-Nile, Garden City Tel: 2791 7000 Dinner for three (or rather two and a half): LE780
