Giovanna Montalbetti goes to a performance of the Moscow Circus on Ice at the Egyptian Circus in Cairo The Russian composer and folklorist Ivan Larionov could never have suspected that his "snowball-tree" song would one day become one of the best-known melodies in the world. Had someone ventured back in 1860 that one day his "Kalinka" would be opening the show of a Russian ice-skating circus in Egypt, he would probably have thought the idea impossible. Yet, such was the case, and an eager crowd was already gathering when we arrived for the Russian circus show at the Cairo circus grounds in Agouza. Egypt's circus tradition goes a long way back, with some family names having been in the trade since the beginning of the last century. Faten El-Helw, for example, belongs to a line of celebrated artists, her family being an Egyptian circus reference in itself. This circus entrepreneur has come a long way from being a child acrobat, to lion tamer, to her current position as chair of the Egyptian Company for Arts and Recreational Projects -- the organisation hosting the Moscow Circus on Ice. El-Helw believes that the circus is all about people -- those performing, of course, but also those attending in order to see seemingly impossible deeds realised. For this reason, El-Helw personally greets audiences to the circus, even as she is partially distracted from her task by the baby in her arms -- her granddaughter, as she happily confesses. However, what El-Helw is offering tonight is less conventional. On a recent visit to Russia, El-Helw saw the Moscow Circus on Ice, and, captivated by its combination of ice-skating and more traditional circus forms, she invited the circus to perform in Egypt. The excitement grows as we wait for the show to begin. As people take their seats, it is heartwarming to see both adults and children share the same anticipation, while a troop of vendors quickly cover the ground, providing customers with everything from soft drinks and snacks to colourful light-wands. The magic is already brewing, and children release part of their exhilaration by dancing to a selection of Enrique Iglesias songs and techno tracks. I catch one of my friends tapping his feet to the music, his eyes locked on the circus ring. He is trying to figure out whether the white tiles are ice or not. It turns out that they are not natural ice, but a special plastic ice devised to allow the Moscow Circus on Ice to perform in Egypt. The night's first mystery is unravelled, but part of me wishes I had been able to touch the surface to see how it feels. This urge is forgotten as soon as the first group of Russian artists appears on stage. Dressed in pristine white costumes, they hypnotise the audience with their succession of spins, acrobatics and twirls. With 30 artists, this is Russia's most mobile circus, and as the show advances it is easy to understand why: the troupe's magician stars as an acrobatic skater in other numbers, but he also assumes the role of stage helper, pulling ropes and tying harnesses, when not himself involved in a number. Indeed, as far as I could see everybody was doing a bit of everything, resulting in a highly organised and effective machine that allowed the show to move swiftly forward with only a 10-minute intermission. During this time children have the opportunity of being photographed petting a baby lion or giant snake. From the beginning to the end of the show we are rewarded with numbers that provide something to please everyone. There are trapeze filigrees for those who like the thrill of danger; clown numbers allowing different degrees of audience cooperation; impossible acrobatics at high speed with geometrical constructions; as well as diavolo, juggling, hula-hoops, monocycles, classical music and rock and roll. However, the show does not end with the Russian performance of Moscow on Ice, as El-Helw announces that the lions and tigers will also be performing as soon as the protective cage is set up. No one thinks of leaving before the grand finale, as lion taming is one of the El-Helw family specialties. On the way out, satisfied parents talk about the experience with their elated children, while others carry already sleeping toddlers in their arms. We all have our favourite moments of the night, and, with the promise that some numbers will vary from one performance to the next, many people are thinking of returning before the Russians finally bid farewell to Agouza in mid-August. Will you be seeing the show? photos: Sherif Sonbol
