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Restaurant review: Den of pleasure
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 25 - 05 - 2006


Restaurant review:
Den of pleasure
It takes courage to sink into bliss
Places, like people, exhibit every sign of independent energy. As a restaurant critic, I have seen enterprises metamorphose into different ventures over the years, and you can bet that no amount of face-lifting or management change ever salvaged a place that had negative karma to begin with. Some geographical spots just have no baraka, they are dispossessed of the verve that enables any spark to grow into a flame.
Others, on the other hand, can undergo as much evolution as business needs will require and simply continue to attract the right people in the right way.
This week, we go back to what once was Il Capo, in Zamalek. If you are around your mid-thirties you may remember Il Capo as the university getaway, where many a morning, afternoon and evening were spent either in tête-à-tête gossip sessions or in large groups of boisterous hogwash.
Cool, dark and mellow --it was perfect. In its new persona, Crave, transformed into a cozy, bright and innocent affair, it is still perfect. Like us, Il Capo seems to have come of age as Crave, while retaining its original free spirit.
One quick look around and we immediately knew that the smiling waiter had shown us to the right spot. If you are more than two people (we were three), you will definitely love the secluded "boudoir" in its little enclave, separated from the rest by an arch and glass panels on the sides. Take a few steps down and you will find a large L- shaped sofa, with four of each of the necessary amenities for everyone: sink-in cushions, huggable cushions, cushions-cum- tables, leg room for curling up, arm room for moving items to and from the gorgeous coffee table, etc... etc... heaven.
Before the waiter had made a complete turn to take our orders to the kitchen, we were slipping out of our footwear and bringing those feet up comfortably on the mocca- coloured sofa. When he returned, it was with some of the best food I have tasted for weeks.
My appetiser was a seductive assortment of four different types of mushroom tricks: fried mushrooms, mushrooms in creme sauce, sautéed mushrooms and stuffed mushrooms. My joy was indescribable, as was the flavour of each of those miracles sitting in my plate. Another appetiser that definitely merits sampling is the selection of grilled vegetables, with aubergines and courgettes side by side with multi-coloured capsicum for a healthy visual feast.
Yet the real pièce de resistance was among the main courses, and it was none other than my very own veal with three sauces. Next to some puréed potatoes with milk and butter, and some grilled veggies, were laid three fresh buns, each topped with a slice of the most tender veal to be had in town, covered by mushroom sauce (I know, it's an obssession!), blue cheese sauce and pepper sauce. The dish is incredibly rich, so it may be a good idea to avoid the buns and focus on the real goodies.
This is a treat not to be missed, and better indulged in as a self-reward for a very good deed so as to avoid the guilt associated with so many calories.
Last but certainly, certainly, not least was a succulent, absolutely to-die-for sweet potato pie with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and drizzles of caramel sauce. They just kill you with their flavours at Crave, and though you may have already undone at least your first button and definitely released your belt, you can't help but crave for more.
Not a good place to test your self-control, but an absolutely perfect spot to indulge in a perfect meal.
Crave
President Hotel
Zamalek
By Injy El-Kashef


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