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Restaurant review: Cuppa with son
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 15 - 07 - 2010


Restaurant review:
Cuppa with son
The Spanish are champions in more ways than one. Senor Gamal Nkrumah couldn't help but get into the mood of Ole
What makes Spanish sportsmen so special? Rafael Nadal clinched the Wimbledon 2010 title and Andres Iniesta scored Spain's crucial goal in the World Cup 2010 finals in South Africa. What's it with Spain this year? Whether the winning Spaniards can buck two such powerful trends, only time will tell. What concerns me here is that the exuberance and vigour of Spanish sportsmen rubbed off, or rather is embodied, in a tiny corner of a Cairene shopping mall.
I am inclined not to pigeonhole cafés -- in Cairo, at any rate there is not much difference between them, and a cup of coffee invariably tastes the same. Take El Churro. This exquisite café sits in the heart of City Stars Mall, opposite the cinema theatres, but it is Spanish through and through.
The Ministerio de Chocolateria, as El Churro markets itself, was the perfect venue for watching the Spanish victory on Sunday night. The Spanish Civil War prevented Spain from participating in the 1934 and the 1950 World Cups. This year they proudly became the eighth nation to win this much-coveted cup. So my son and I have eaten at this, not quite fine-dining café.
This is no ice cream parlour, though. The Spaniards, as I explained to my son, discovered chocolate in Mexico -- pity the Latin Americans fared so poorly at this particular World Cup. They borrowed the beautiful brew, added sugar instead of spices and metamorphosed into excellent confectioners.
But then like magic, the chocolate mix has metamorphosed into ice cream. From Spain chocolate spread to Europe and the rest of the world. I carefully explained to my son that the Spanish Conquistadors also learnt about potatoes, tomatoes, maize and the motley of other foodstuffs from the Native Americans they encountered in South and Central America.
Ice cream has long been the preserve of children, but now adults, too, can sample without guilt the pleasures of groundbreaking flavours. You might not yet get a liquid nitrogen ice cream sandwich in Cairo, but at least the hazelnut gelato is readily available. The flavours at El Churro are decidedly adult, but my adolescent son whole-heartedly approved.
The glow in the dark chocolate ice cream was particularly appealing to him. The slush puppy coffee granitas are exceptionally mouth-watering, enticing both youngsters and mature customers. Dark chocolate and Mocca are especially appealing and the curious mugs that the delectable concoction delivered in are equally inviting. Before the final, he showed no sentiment when asked whether he thought Spain would win. "I always find it hard when you get these questions to give a specific answer."
The ice cream is an experience in itself. Wild strawberry ice cream with Sienna Strawberry ganache and chocolate garnish is absolutely scrumptious. Cappuccino ice cream with chocolate sauce and caramelised coconut garnish is clearly created by Spanish master Chocolatiers. Or try the chocolate affogato, expresso shot with a scoop of El Churros signature ice cream.
The trio of couverture chocolate (milk, dark, white) served with mini churros, is yet another temptation, especially when poured over marshmallows and seasonal fruits are quite simply delectable.
Spanish chocolate mousse Martini or the bizcocho, the rich chocolate cake drowned in melted couverture chocolate, topped with double cream and chocolate shavings is simply sinful.
The chai latte, tea-based latte with Asian spices is not particularly Spanish tasting, but I assure my son that the Spaniards did colonise the Philippines, too. The Spanish way to start the day appeals to my son more and more. I couldn't resist the Madrid Mocca, a delectable blend of classic Spanish hot chocolate and the finest Arabian coffee. My son opted for Barcelona, classic Spanish hot chocolate infused peanut butter.
Dipped in thick molten chocolate, he savoured every spoonful. Dulce de Leche (Argentine caramel) -- Argentina being yet another former Spanish colony in South America, I hasten to add. My son by now is a bit bored with the history lessons. Buddha Baci (El Churro's famous thick hot chocolate infused with hazelnuts) is far more titillating and so is the Buddha Baci (El Churro's famous thick hot chocolate infused with hazelnuts). Baci, dark chocolate -- 60 per cent -- chocolate ice cream, hazelnuts and chocolate shavings.
I decline the Mango Tango -- fresh mango slices, vanilla bean ice cream and chocolate shavings and relish the Raspberry Rumba -- fresh raspberries, creamy white chocolate, vanilla bean and a quality we were very happy with.
El Churro,City Stars Mall
2 Ali Rashad Street, Heliopolis, Cairo
Dinner for two: LE150
Tel: 2480 0500


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