Aswan: Boundaries of an island

ASWAN, Egypt: The greatest single word that captures the beauty of Egypt is “diverse”. No city, town or landscape is like the other. Even the Nile in Cairo is nothing like the Nile in Aswan; the heartland of Nubia. The moment you land in Aswan a feeling of peace and tranquility settles over you. Gone are the boisterous, noisy streets of Cairo and the hassle of Luxor. Aswan is beauty, simplicity and nature. The wonders of this stunning city; manmade and natural, will dazzle you.
Rather than taking a bus with loads of tourists to the main attractions, the best way to start your day in Aswan is by walking along the Nile in the early morning to the northern public ferry. This will carry you across the Nile from the East bank (where the town center is) to the poorer West bank. On this ferry, custom dictates that men sit on one side and women on the other. It’s always fun to dip your hand in the water as the ferry crosses to the other side. A hill on the west side houses the tombs of the Nobles high up in its caves. A camel ride or a short walk leads you to the base of the mountain. The first half of the climb upwards is easy and quick. The tombs are midway upwards. These hidden caves housed the bodies of governors and dignitaries of ancient times. While the tombs themselves are not exceptional, the crawl into one of them on all fours through a short tunnel is always fun. The good humored guide there; once inside the tomb, never tires of telling the visitors tales of bats, scorpions and snakes that inhabit it. He also knows the travel book in your hands by heart; casually reciting the tomb numbers by heart.
Done with the tombs, the steeper half of the climb awaits you. Few bother to climb the rocks to the summit, but it is worth it. Kubbat al Hawa is a tomb atop the mountain that was built for a local sheikh. Relax in its shade, feel the breeze and take pleasure in truly stunning views of the Nile and its islands not seen on postcards. A view of lush green trees on islands, sparkling running waters dotted with sailboats and feluccas against a backdrop of the city is one you can’t get enough of. Far enough to the south, the First Cataract can be spotted and the Old Cataract Hotel, where Agatha Christie wrote “Death on the Nile”.
Once relaxed (and a bit chilly), climb back down slowly; there is a small danger of falling down and hurting yourself. Back on the ground, trace your way back to the ferry and take it back to the East bank where you started. Walk to the south along the Corniche. Friendly greetings of “Welcome Aswan!” are heard often. The Nubians are the friendliest people in Egypt. Walk till you reach the southern public ferry, which crosses to Elephantine Island. Elephantine houses the ruins of Abu, Aswan’s earliest settlement, dating back to 3,000 BC. The ruins do not warrant more than a quick passing, apart from the Nilometer. This quarry like enclosure that descends below the level of its surroundings, was used in ancient times to measure water levels.
After seeing the ruins, ditch the travel guide and get lost on Elephantine. Wander through the modern Nubian villages; very much alive and thriving. Tiny alleys of unpaved dirt roads separate between colorful houses that do not exceed two stories. Little boys and girls wave to visitors and will give directions if you ask. The smell of cooking fills your nostrils and a few chickens will cross your path as well. Ask for directions to the Botanical Gardens; you’ll be led to the edge of the island where a few Nubians with feluccas wait for tourists.
For a cheap price one of them will row you across the Nile to the famous Botanical Gardens. A felucca ride is makes the most luxurious cruise boats pale in comparison. It is one of those rare opportunities to listen to the sound of silence. Nothing can be heard but the rowing of the oars. Your guide will let you try rowing, but you’ll probably end up switching directions. Don’t get up or move suddenly or the boat will capsize. Dim your whole arm in the freezing Nile as the boat moves and don’t forget to taste it – if there’s one thing you must do in Egypt, it’s to drink from the Nile (in Aswan; it is too polluted in Cairo); by far the best water you will ever taste. Take the guide’s mobile number to call him to take you back when you are done.
The island that houses the Gardens was given to Lord Horatio Kitchener, the Commander of the Egyptian Army 120 years ago who transformed it into a garden by importing exotic plants and trees from all over the world. Wooden plaques tell the species and country of origin of each tree. The garden is most enjoyable an hour before sunset, when the light is soft and birds are chirping overhead. The Nile’s perpetual breeze makes you cool and comfortable at all times. An hour is about enough at the gardens. Take the felucca back to Elephantine and from there the ferry back to the East bank.
Philae Temple, located on the island of Philae south of the old Aswan Dam, is a magnificent example of the intermingling of Egypt’s rich history. Philae is best reached by taxi from the East bank. It has to be visited in the morning. Hire a motorboat to take you from the ticket office across the water to the island and keep the guide’s number with you. This Nile ride is different but equally stunning, with views of the temple and the Aswan Dam. Philae Island is not the temple’s original site. It was relocated there by UNESCO after late President Nasser’s High Dam project threatened to drown it in Lake Nasser forever.
Philae was dedicated to worship of the Ancient Egyptian goddess Isis. Its earliest remains date back to the reign of Nectanebo, Egypt’s last native king. However, the most important of the ruins were begun by Ptolemy II Philadelphus in the Ptolemaic era and added to for the next 500 years until the reign of Roman Emperor Diocletian. By this time, Isis was worshipped across the entire Roman Empire. Egypt’s early Christians later transformed the main temple’s hall into a chapel. Crosses can be seen inscribed on the columns.
The boundaries of the island, among shady trees and lapping waters, provide some relief from Aswan’s scorching sun (like most of southern Egypt, Aswan’s weather is hot by day and near freezing at night).
Finally, the perfect end to a day in Aswan is an hour at the lush Ferial Gardens by the Old Cataract. They are best visited after sunset, when soft shimmering lights dancing on the Nile waters provide for a delightfully eerie, romantic atmosphere. No matter how many times you visit, Aswan is a priceless jewel that will always leave you yearning for more.
BM