Horseplay, history, waves and waivers: all are part of the perfect weekend escape within Cairo for Colette Kinsella To get away from it all is something everybody needs now and again. If Bill Clinton can take it upon himself to redefine the word "is", then I have no compunction -- at all -- of redefining the word "all". For me, these three small letters mean just three small things: home, work and noise. Getting away from any one of these things is no small feat within the boundaries of Greater Cairo, never mind escaping all three. In high summer, when temperatures topple over into the 40s Celsius, relief from the Cairo smog is a weekend necessity, but not as easy as it may sound. My requirements for the perfect getaway are modest: sun, sea, sand and service are definitely top on the list, closely followed by lush greenery, possibly a Pyramid or two, or maybe even some wildlife -- in my environs, though, as opposed to on my plate. But where to go? The searing heat of summer means the six- hour drive to Sinai is an option only for masochists, and the crystal-clear waters of the Mediterranean are obscured by a thick wall of clothed and semi-clothed bodies at this time of year. Surely there must be something to fit the bill within a short drive of downtown Cairo? If there is, I am determined to find it. Some legwork is required, as is a map of Greater Cairo and some calls to my "sources". LIFE'S A BEACH: And so I find myself relaxing on a chaise- lounge, sipping mango juice, toes skimming the surface of the sand, water lapping gently a mere metre from my parasol. No, I have not given in to the temptations of the Red Sea: I am enjoying sun, sand and a sea, of sorts, in "The Beach" resort of the JW Marriott hotel complex in the Qatameya suburb of Cairo. A half-hour taxi journey from Heliopolis has transported me to this oasis in the desert, and it certainly meets some of the requirements for a relaxing weekend away: three pools, plenty of distractions to keep the children happy and a plethora of waiters to cater to my every whim. The landscaping is lush with several waterfalls, sweeping greenery and impossibly picturesque palm trees and bougainvillaea. But the architects, like so many others here, have once again been seduced by the well-worn theme of Ancient Egypt; a huge temple-like structure towers over the "beach" pool behind a wall of water, but thankfully this is the only manifestation of anything Pharaonic. There are very few people here around mid-day and early afternoon, and the hotel, for now, is an oasis of quiet and relaxation on the edge of the city. After much deliberation I decide to abandon the lethargic sun- worshippers on the sandy beach and make for the thrills and spill of the wave pool. As a single person and one defending my own space tooth and nail, I am not normally interested in joining in with so-called family entertainment. But as I watch fathers, mothers and offspring balancing precariously on top of rubber rings, crashing around on top of the waves, screeching in utmost delight, I just can't help myself: I grab the nearest ring and head for the waves, yelling with the best of them. And before I know it, I even find myself hurtling down the heart-wrenching, claustrophobic water slide with the other kids. Oh, the city seems so far away... You have several options if you want to enjoy "The Beach". Booking a room for the night entitles you to unlimited access to the pools; you can pay LE75 for a day pass, no food or beverages included; or you can become a full member and avail of the tennis courts and golf course. The poolside service, according to some guests, could be better, but the ambiance in the less-crowded parts of the day is agreeable. "And don't forget dinner," my companion reminds me. And I am glad I remembered. The hotel restaurant, which has high, airy ceilings, tasteful arabesque décor and overlooks the golf course, offers a superb buffet with a wide selection of Lebanese dishes, pastas, salads, fish and meat; and the desert selections would lead a saint into temptation -- the perfect finale to a sun- drenched day. I emerge onto the dusty highway in search of a cab, exhausted from a tough day on the "beach" and lethargic from the pasta and cheese cake. Roll on next weekend. JW Marriott, Ring Road, Mirage City. Tel: (+202) 411 5588, fax: (+202) 411 2266. MY KINGDOM FOR A HORSE: "Who's a beautiful girl," I say, only to be nipped roughly on the arm as I turn away to survey the desert. My cheeky conversation partner is a beautiful, high- spirited grey Arab mare, who tosses her mane with glee and canters to the other end of the corral where she studiously ignores me. She is just one of the 150 or so horses stabled at the Sakkara Country Club on the edge of the desert. As I wander around the stables, scratching nuzzles, cooing at foals and patting manes, I am sorely tempted to saddle up and ride out into the sand. My swimsuit and sarong, however, are hardly appropriate riding attire. I have just come from the poolside and a refreshing swim and no doubt I will be heading back there shortly to cool down and take refuge from the relentless sun. The air in this rural part of the world is beautiful and almost sweet. We are not more than a 45-minute drive from downtown Cairo -- on a weekend day, when traffic is light -- yet we could be on a different planet. I cannot help but feel a total sense of peace as my gaze wanders over the horses rolling blissfully in the dust, the lawn as it sweeps out to meet the stark yellow desert, and the date palms swaying gently in the breeze, to employ a perhaps overused expression. The rooms off to the side of the pool look inviting: whitewashed exterior, wooden trim and small patio in front where guests can sit and absorb the view. I could stay here for a week, I think. But the only way I can do this is by becoming a member. The club does, however, allow prospective members to sample facilities for a single day at a cost of LE65 per person -- including lunch -- but those interested in availing of this weekend retreat are required to become full members. The interior of the clubhouse is decorated in incongruous English style: lots of deep, leather armchairs and oil paintings of hunting and riding scenes on the wall. Lunch is good, the service friendly and the table- talk of horses and travel -- very civilised indeed. Pass the membership form. Do you take Visa? Sakkara Country Club, Sakkara Road. Tel: (+202) 381 1893, fax: (+202) 381 0571. UNDER THE EYE OF CHEOPS: My mind goes blank as I back- stroke across the Mena House Oberoi pool. "Wow," is about the only thought I can manage as I ogle the Great Pyramids of Cheops and Cephren; how decadent, I think, to swim at the foot of one of the Seven Wonders of the world. I dive into the cool, watery depths and contemplate the history of this luxurious hotel: it was built in the 1860s and was the hunting lodge of the Khedive Ismail. Affairs of state, however, prevented him from using it much himself, so he eventually sold it to Frederick Head for use as a private residence. The house was enlarged over the years, and was then purchased by an English couple, the Locke- Kings, who turned it into a hotel. The building has since played host to many noteworthy historical figures; Roosevelt and Churchill, for instance, met here in 1943 to forge plans for the defeat of the Germany during World War II. The interior is nothing if not sumptuous -- Arabesque furniture inlaid with mother of pearl, hand- crafted mosaic tiles, brass-bound wooden doors. Décor fit for a king. And the poolside -- a leafy, flowery garden setting -- is certainly fit for this reporter to relax with a cool juice and The Guardian. Poolside rooms can be rented for an overnight stay, and other recreational facilities include a golf course, jogging track as well as horse and camel riding. "Everything ok, madam?" Definitely. Mena House Oberoi, Pyramids Road, Giza. Tel: (+202) 383 3222, fax: (+202) 383 7777. E- mail: [email protected] , website: www.oberoihotels.com .
