EGP declines vs. USD at Thursday's close    Euro area inflation rises to 2.0% in October '24 – flash estimates    IF YOU LOVE SOMEONE WHO SMOKES, GIVE THEM THE FACTS    Asian stocks slide as chip sector weakens    Egypt's Minister of Environment highlights biodiversity issues at COP16    Egypt's Agriculture Minister meets Syrian, Bahraini counterparts to boost cooperation in Amman    Al-Qassam Brigades targets Israeli vehicles in eastern Gaza    ACUD, DP World, and GAFI sign MoU to develop free zone in New Capital    Egyptian government encourages increased mutual investment with Bahrain: Finance Minister    A Tale of Two Cities: Alexandria hosts 2nd edition of exhibition celebrating Greek, Egyptian cultural ties    Egypt, Djibouti leaders discuss strengthening ties, regional issues    Egypt's FM affirms commitment to Sahel security, offers support to Niger    Egyptian banking sector support underprivileged communities in Alexandria – CBE    Afghanistan signs $163m deal for cement plant    US tightens tech investment rules for China    Biden unveils $3b investment to strengthen US port infrastructure    Military Production, Environment Ministers inaugurate banana fiber recycling plant    Luxor Museum to host exhibition on 19th century antiquities inspection tours    Nourhan Kamal Wins 2024 Helmi Sharawy Award for African Studies    Egypt observes Intl. E-waste Day, highlights recycling efforts    Egypt's military capabilities sufficient to defend country: Al-Sisi    Al-Sisi emphasises water security is Egypt's top priority amid Nile River concerns    Cairo Opera House hosts grand opening of Arab Music Festival, Conference    Grand Egyptian Museum ready for partial trial run on October 16: PM    Colombia unveils $40b investment plan for climate transition    Kabaddi: Ancient Indian sport gaining popularity in Egypt    Ecuador's drought forces further power cuts    Al-Sisi orders sports system overhaul after Paris Olympics    Basketball Africa League Future Pros returns for 2nd season    Egypt joins Africa's FEDA    Paris Olympic gold '24 medals hit record value    A minute of silence for Egyptian sports    Paris Olympics opening draws record viewers    Who leads the economic portfolios in Egypt's new Cabinet?    Financial literacy becomes extremely important – EGX official    Motaz Azaiza mural in Manchester tribute to Palestinian journalists    Russia says it's in sync with US, China, Pakistan on Taliban    It's a bit frustrating to draw at home: Real Madrid keeper after Villarreal game    Shoukry reviews with Guterres Egypt's efforts to achieve SDGs, promote human rights    Sudan says countries must cooperate on vaccines    Johnson & Johnson: Second shot boosts antibodies and protection against COVID-19    Egypt to tax bloggers, YouTubers    Egypt's FM asserts importance of stability in Libya, holding elections as scheduled    Egypt records 36 new deaths from Covid-19, highest since mid June    We mustn't lose touch: Muller after Bayern win in Bundesliga    Egypt sells $3 bln US-dollar dominated eurobonds    Gamal Hanafy's ceramic exhibition at Gezira Arts Centre is a must go    Italian Institute Director Davide Scalmani presents activities of the Cairo Institute for ITALIANA.IT platform    







Thank you for reporting!
This image will be automatically disabled when it gets reported by several people.



Restaurant review: The straight and narrow
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 07 - 10 - 2004


Restaurant review:
The straight and narrow
I snapped her head off and order was restored
We're shopping for bears, again. It's a very hot day, too hot for bear shopping, if you ask me. I was sitting by the pool, leafing through a week's worth of newspapers, learning all about our future e-government and dreaming of the day when we'll all be filing our tax reports through our camcorders while sipping pina coladas in the Bahamas, when the Brunette arrived with news of the inevitable. A friend of ours has just had a baby and the baby needs jewellery to complement her really tiny but ever-expanding wardrobe.
I have trouble purchasing jewellery, for I find anything smaller than King Tut's mask hard on the eyes. What with all the details, the incredible smallness of ornamentation? If the men who make these ultra-thin necklaces, these ant-like engravings need super- powerful monocles to get them right, how do you expect me, who cannot read your average restaurant menu in reasonable lighting, to be able to pass judgement? I suggest we buy an earthenware crib for the baby, a stonehenge headrest for the mother, something I can actually see, but no. It has to be small as the baby's match-stick fingers, thin as the Middle East's chance for peace, intricate as the NDP's plan for bank mergers, or it won't do. We'll need the Armenian.
The Armenian knows me well. Not because I ever bought anything from him, but because I am always there for him, nodding in patience, whenever one of the assorted would-be wives of my friends gets on his case. He would prepare her the jewellery, according to her own ever-changing specifications, then he and I would take the future husband aside and tell him to get out of the marriage while he can. None did, but at least we tried. He chuckles when we walk through the door. And the bears arrive. They have tiny feet of red, eyes that shine like the pinheads on which angels used to dance before church told them to grow up, and bellies that can hold perhaps a drop of beer each. We get two, one for the friend, the other for my niece (I am wearing it right now, perhaps she'll get it one day, when her tiny matchstick fingers are strong enough to prise it out of my big hairy bear-like chest).
We're sitting at the Great Divide, and we're having a moment of angst. I have seen many divides in my life, perfectly sensible ones. Between Germans and Germans (since they united you cannot buy second-hand, smoky, sweating, manly, let-the-environmentalists- filter-my-foot steel factories anywhere). Between Cypriots and Cypriots (the 30-year-old division kept the distinct styles of kebab developing in ethnically pure environments for extra flavour). But what is this divide for? The courtyard of Al-Gomhouriya grillhouse is 3.5 metres wide and divided lengthwise, to create two long, straight and impossibly narrow rooms. And this is the place that, I am told, has consistently, for the past 30 years, made the best pigeons in town.
Glasses of steaming hot pigeon broth are passed around, once, twice, or three times before the meal. Then the treats arrive. The nifa (goat meat) tastes like duck. The meat is just fibrous enough to remain in one piece, and the crispness is something out of Chinatown. The Brunette has a momentary fit of horror when the stuffed pigeons arrive with their heads still on their shoulders. I snap her neck (the pigeon's) with a practised move and she looks better, so does the Brunette. The cucumber pickles are fresh, half-green half-olive in colour, and I am told that they have to be prepared daily to maintain their combat-camouflage look.
Al-Gomhouriya Restaurant, (02) 392 3008, 42 Falaki Street, around the corner from Horreya Café, downtown, is open 1pm to 3am. Exceptional grills and stuffed pigeons in a segregated, divided Cold War ambiance. Take away but no delivery and no alcohol. Dinner for six, LE120.
By Nabil Shawkat


Clic here to read the story from its source.