Restaurateurs the world over realise that names do need to be concise and memorable, no matter what language they are in. The Cairo Kitchen is an English name and it serves Egyptian food. Yet, its name implies that its clientele is essentially expatriate. Mind you, many Egyptians who do not particularly savour heading for street food stalls champion Cairo Kitchen. Maadi's eateries are rarely cut from the same cloth. This particular kitchen is surrounded by a close coterie of customers. Its admirers argue, purportedly on political grounds, that it is the most revolutionary dish of the day. There had long been whispers that Cairo Kitchen is a skillful reworking of the most popular traditional Egyptian dish in an immaculate and classy fashion. Like all reputable restaurants, Cairo Kitchen relies on turning tables to prosper. Customers from Maadi frequently ventured to Zamalek to enjoy traditional Egyptian cuisine. Now they need not go that far. The second branch of the highly successful and popular Cairo Kitchen opened in Maadi recently. The restaurant, like its counterpart in Zamalek, could seat 50 and also like its namesake in Zamalek all on one floor. Yet, Cairo Kitchen will take bookings for lunch and dinner, but has no particular policy of reservations. The signature dish of Cairo Kitchen is koshari. However, there are motley dishes inspired by the traditional Egyptian cuisine. I have not had trotter, but I have invariably enjoyed prawns in a tasty garlic and tomato sauce. Do not expect fish and chips or fois gras with truffles, though. This is strictly speaking an Egyptian eatery, but certain traditional Egyptian dishes are out of the question. Most of the customers of Cairo Kitchen are in the 20-40 age bracket. However, many of the customers who keep Cairo Kitchen buzzing are well over 50. Many regulars want to explore dishes that are unique to Egypt. And, unlike most so-called “Oriental” or “Middle Eastern” restaurants, Cairo Kitchen does not serve Levantine gastronomical delights. I have never had the parsley-based Lebanese taboula or the lettuce and toasted bread fatoush. Yet typically Egyptian salads and pickles abound. There is an awful lot of koshari in Cairo but why is it so difficult to find a decent dish? Koshari, a potpourri of pasta, rice, lentils and chickpeas, is a peculiarly Egyptian dish that is said to hail from India, or to be more precise, Indian troops serving under the British colonialists. It is a vegetarian dish, even though Cairo Kitchen has improvised on the original recipe. The outcome is simultaneously familiar and different. Maadi thrives, in spite of the economic downturn. The leafy south Cairene suburb is a bubble, so to speak, as restaurant agents will readily tell you. There is a virtually untapped market for fast food with an Egyptian twist. Maadi and Zamalek have perhaps the largest percentage of expatriates in Cairo and many embassies to boot. It has been difficult for most high-end restaurateurs in Egypt in the past few months. Not so, as far as Cairo Kitchen is concerned. Maadi is a Cairene district where people are prepared to pay higher prices for traditional Egyptian dishes. Maadi is a fashionable neighbourhood and the Cairo Kitchen stands proudly in a top hat in the especially green, manicured lawns and tree-lined avenues, suburb of Digla. Do not expect to have your usual koshari mix. Yes, you can have plump chickpeas. And, lentils, too. But you can add Alexandrian liver or succulent morsels of mutton, lamb or beef or veal and chicken or fish for the more adventurous. The menu changes, however, from day to day. So do not expect your favourite accompaniment to koshari to be there waiting for whenever you pop in. Surprise is part of the excitement of the Cairo Kitchen. With two outlets so far the owners of Cairo Kitchen are certainly not great believers in the recession. How many premium koshari outlets, reasonably priced salads and side-dishes do you have in contemporary Cairo? Cairo Kitchen Maadi
